rear wheel bearings

[Boydskyking]

I am going to change my rear wheel bearings an my 1966 porsche 912 . I understand that some one makes a tool to pull this bearing. Does anyone know about this and if so where do I find one.

[djdsc]

Search the 911 tech section here, there are several postings and suggestions for home made tools for the job and the procedure.

[lep]

Look at item #9 below. I used a hammer and a very large Craftsmen socket that was just smaller then the hub outside diameter on the trailing arms -- and they popped out like "butter." (this is from my 1968 Porsche 912 Restoration page at Geocities -- http://www.geocities.com/porsche912restoration/index.html ).

1. Place the rear of the car up on jack stands, with the jacks placed below the torsion bar housing (see above).
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Pull the disk (drum) off the hub (the hub is the piece with 5 studs in it).
4. Remove the hydraulic brake line from the caliper (cover it with a cloth or ziploc bag) and remove the brake caliper.
5. Remove the cotter pin and the castelated nut on the handbrake cable, and disassemble and remove the handbrakes.
6. Remove the cotter pin from the axle nut, and then loosen the nut with a wrench and cheater bar (see above). Be careful here, since the service manual states that the torque applied to the wrench is sufficient to knock the car off the jack stands -- this would certainly ruin your day!
7. Unbolt the transaxle at the transmission and wheel and remove it, pulling the axle out of the hub. Be careful with the axle, and place in it a clean location.
8. Jack up the trailing arm about 3" and loosen the bolt for the shock absorber, and then unfasten the bolt at the top of the shock absorber inside the engine housing, and then remove the shock absorber. Release the tension on the jack and remove the jack. (I like to remove the shock absorber first so there is room to work with the next step.)
9. Remove the hub (containing the 5 wheel studs). The service manual calls for Part 297 to hammer and knock the hub out by hitting part 297 from the inside against the hub. I used a Craftsman socket that fit the inside diameter of the axle perfectly against the hub. No damage was done the hub when done.
10. Loosen the 4 bolts that hold the brake pad holder to the trailing arm, and remove.
11. Unclip the brake line fastener clamp form the trailing arm.
12. Next, remove the four bolts holding the trailing arm to the spring plate, and don't worry about tension on the spring plate, there isn't any tension on it.
13. Remove the bolt that fastens the trailing arm to the frame.
14. Carefully work the trailing arm out of the holding mount on the frame and the brake line.
15. That's it.
16. When working with both sides of the car, carefully store all parts in different boxes for the left and right side of the care. Don't mix up the axles, transaxle parts, hubs, brakes, etc.
17. At this point I totally disassembled the transaxles.
18. Grease on transaxle joints and bearings can be dissolved with a spray can of brake cleaner, and repacked using Molybdenum grease (not lithium grease). Moly grease is for high heat parts such as transaxles and wheel bearings.
19. I also used an electric drill and a Dremel Moto tool with wire brush attachments to removed dirt and rust on both trailing arms, brake pad holders, and hubs.
20. I then applied Marine Clean, Metal ready, and POR-15 anti-rust paint to the trailing arm.
21. New new rubber boots and fasteners for the transaxles were also installed.
22. Relined brake pads were installed along with new springs.
23. New Koni shock absorbers were also installed.