I run Webers on the 912 and Solexs on the 356, once dialed in the Webers run great, I run 60 idle jets on the Webers, Solexs are re-manufactured by Harry Bieker and were worth the cost.
The .009 is definitely an issue, the RS0002 is the best option, .050 being a distant second, .009 forget it....
Chas.
912356911

Actually the shop pro's are idiots. They just don't know anything about Webers and are too lazy to learn. I have had great service from the Webers and been using them for almost 50 years on all types of car. I have a set of split shaft Solexes sitting on the shelf. Walt, that helped me rebuilt the engine in the 912. Built Porsche engines for the Porsche teams during the golden years of Porsche racing. He was very impressed with the performance I get from the Webers. He had talked to the folks that make the Webers to help sort out a problem. They had figured out the best jetting air and etc. I needed for the engine. When I rebuilt this engine I just moved them over to it and it started up with just a minor tweak. In the 5 years and 18000 km they have been tweaked twice. Just like driving computer control fuel injection no backfire, popping or hesitation. Walt knew Zen. and Solexes from the 356 and 912 years. However, he took the time to learn Webers.

You may not need to do anything to the Webers once you got the RS00012. I personally use 031's. However, those folks in the Registry the use them swear by them.

If you want. I will ask Walt if he will rebuild the Webers and put the correct jets and etc in for you. If you decide you need it. He is retired and lives in Springfield, now. If you ever see and talk to Gary Emory at Parts Obsolete. Ask him about Walt Adreance.

well i started it today and with alot of poping from #2 did a compression test today on #2#4
#2 175 PSI
#4 180 PSI
11.1 compression ratio??
i have a rs00012 on its way i wonder what cam may be in this engine what are the cam sizes for the 912?? and will rs00012 work with a large cam i can't tell if it has one or not now if it were chev 427 i could but this sounds mild thanks >>>Greg

The cams for a 912: The performance street cams start at 270 degrees and the 280 is the best for all around street performance. The 290, 300, 310, and 320 degree cams are for the track only and very poor for the street. Unless you want to keep the RPMs up around 3500-4000. They are strictly for high upper end RPMs.

You can roughly figure what cam you have by checking when the intake opens (with a stock cam would be 17 Degrees BTDC) When the intake closes (a stock cam 53 degrees ABDC) Then add 180 degrees and it would give 250 degrees. American numbers would give you 268 degrees. If she has anything above a hot street cam. It would be more that a 100 degrees difference between BTDC and ABDC for the intake. Before you added the 180 degrees. Again this would be a very rough estimate.

As more information is being discovered it reads as if the engine was built for high performance. The original engines had a compression ratio of 9.3:1. About 130 PSI per cylinder and they all should be within 5%. It might be a little higher if the heads over time have been resurface a few times. Anything over that means that they have higher compression pistons installed. With the sound of the diesel on cold startup. probably means that she has the Shasta 11:1 forged pistons. Which would mean a heavier cam and why the PO had the 009 installed and you have no low end torque. The pinging meant you need to use 100+ octane (racing gas). The 009 only has 10 degrees of internal advance and comes on much quicker than most engines can use. I would still go with a 031 or the RS00012. They should help to make it a little more drivable for the lady.

Again, this is all guesstimate I am not there to help sort it out.

If she has a heavier cam. It will feel a little rough or seems like it is missing a little. Until you reach about 2400 or when the cam come on. Then it should be just as smooth as computer control fuel injection. If or when you have everything sorted out. Also you might have to go to a different plug.

that is exactly how it runs a little bump miss now and agen and a sneez bump sneez once it hits 2500 smooth as silk i will tell her that down the road a top end detune may be somthing she might look into and save for . so far the plugs look good but when i get the dizzy in it we will look agen thanks greg

Greg, if your 911's are stock and she has a heavy cam and 11:1 compression. When the engine is sorted out. She should eat your 911's for lunch. She has a lighter car, better balance, and the hp should be around 145 maybe more. If she doesn't have the big stuff. At least she should be able to stay up with you. However, tell her to keep the RPMs up and enjoy the car. 912's can be very forgiven when you makes a slight error. Where the early 911's are more tail happy.

Anyway good luck and enjoy, maybe I will see you at the next Parts Obsolete Porsche campout.

Jaems
66 Euro 912R.

Indeed I am reading this after many exchanges, but I have learned the hard way that carb adjustment and spark plug gap are probably the most crucial. With carbs, they first need to be clean, so get some spray carb cleaner and expend the entire can on both (in the throats and on the outside). The floats could also be gummed up, so you may need to use a carb rebuild kit. For the plugs, it's mainly the gap setting -- they can even be dirty quite a bit, but as long as the gap is optimal the engine will run ok. During run time, the combination of explosive forces from combustion (high compression) and heat results in a gap change over time, so this needs to be checked periodically. (breakerless points are somewhat an afterthought -- but they do essentially prevent the need for replacing the points and the capacitor. The Pertronix tends to very reliable, and to my knowledge don't go bad that often). As long as you service the distributor, this shouldn't be a problem).

Last, adjust the valve lash.

If you timed the engine, checked the plug gap, clean the carbs (remove, dissasseble, clean, new gasket kit) it should run decently. Buying a new distributor is more of a luxury for long term concerns over performance. Sounds like you want to simply get the engine running satisfactorily. If it was my engine, I would rebuild the carbs, get the RS00012 distributor, and an MSD Ignition Box, new plugs, plug wires, etc.