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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 38
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Just re-assembled my rear suspension and have a measurable difference of about 3/4" from side to side at the rear wheel wells.
Weird part is that the measurement from the tailights to the ground on both sides is equal, not different! What is the trick to getting this right? I marked the angles on the wheel well before removing the torsion carrier arm. I seem to remember a trick about the splines, but I took the torsion bar out and tried different spline positions...to no avail, they all are the same. What am I missing? Thanks for your help, Erik. |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Baltimore/DC area
Posts: 120
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"Weird part is that the measurement from the tailights to the ground on both sides is equal, not
different!" DON’T KNOW, BUT I SUSPECT THE CAR IS SITTING OVER UN-EVEN GROUND/PAVEMENT. "I marked the angles on the wheel well before removing the torsion carrier arm." I FOUND A TOOL AT HOME DEPOT THAT MAKES IT MUCH EASIER. IT’S A CARPENTRY TOOL WITY A STRAIGHT-EDGE ON THE BOTTOM, AND A FLOATING ARROW INSIDE A CIRCULAR VIEWING GLASS. THE GLASS HAS 360 DEGREES MARKED AROUND IT AND THE ARROW POINTS TO THE EXACT DEGREE OF ANGLE YOU MEASURE. I TOOK THE MEASUREMENTS ON THE RADIUS ARM (WITH EVERYTHING DISCONNECTED) AND GOT BOTH SIDES DEAD EVEN. THIS DEVISE WAS A MERE TEN CLAMS INCLUDING TAX. "I seem to remember a trick about the splines, but I took the torsion bar out and tried different spline positions" REMEMBER NUMBER OF SPLINES ON INNER END OF TORSION BAR IS DIFFERENT THAN OUTER END. MOVE THEM IN COMBINATION TO FIND THE RIGHT SETTING. WAYNE’S "101 PROJECTS…" BOOK DESCRIBES IT WELL. ALSO, REALLY CLEAN UP THOSE TWO ECCENTRIC BOLTS BEFORE RE-ASSEMBLY. THAT WAY, WHEN YOU GO TO BOLT UP THE TRAILING ARM, IT WILL BE EASY TO GET IT BACK TO THE PLACE WHERE IT STARTED (ASSUMING YOU MARKED ITS POSITION ON THE RADIUS ARM). LEMME KNOW IF YOU HAVE MORE QUESTIONS. AND HELP ME FIGURE OUT HOW THE HADES I’M GONNA GET MY FRESHLY SWAPPED DOORS RE-ALIGNED! |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 38
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Ahhh the doors, they are fun too!
Mine luckily aren't that bad, but I had fun with them. The driver's side one is still a little proud in the front, but not horrendous. I didn't pay any attention to the eccentrics...do you think if the eccentrics are off, they could be making up the difference? Thanks, E. |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Baltimore/DC area
Posts: 120
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I don't think the eccentrics are your problem. If you didn't mark where they where, just have the rear aligned by a competant shop once you get your ride height dialed in. 3/4" difference sounds like splines need to be re-set. Where are you measuring this 3/4" difference? The manual says to measure ground to center of wheel and then measure ground to center of torsion bar. The difference of these measurements should be 12mm +/- 7mm. If you can't get the two sides exactly even, make the driver's side a little higher, that'll compentsate for your [m]ass in the driver'seat.
What did you do on your doors? I can't get either of mine to latch shut! NINE DAYS 'TIL HERSHEY!!! |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 38
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Latching shut, LOL, the fix was just temporary until I get my new latches, but I lift the door about a 1/2" then push it in and it latches.
This is on my resto project, keep in mind...the problem with the torsion bars and doors, etc. BTW: I bought the angle device at Home Depot last night, I put it on the torsion bars and they are exactly the same angle...I'm baffled? So you're going to Hershey too, huh, I went last year, I'm going this year...it's too close not to! Hint: Get their really early...if you see something you like buy it immediately...don't bring the SO. I was looking at a pair of leather high back seats for my project car. Jim at Klasse356 told me he'd bring up a set for me. I looked at them, they were great, but i didn't think my wife would be thrilled watching me give him $400 for them. We walked away and ten minutes later she asks why I didn't buy them...I run back...they are gone!!! ![]() E |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Redding,CA USA
Posts: 286
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Just lowered my 69 912 & installed the adjustable "Swayaway" swing arms. Measurements at the rear fender wells are 25". Try measuring at different points around the car. The bottom of the deco strip in front of the wheel wells, bottom of the jack point on each side, also measure the distance from the top of the swing arm (just right of the upper right tbar carrier bolt) to the floor. Has your car ever had any body work done, in other words has it ever been in an accident? Does the measurements vary any after driving the car? My car gets lower after driving it for about 20 miles. Still trying to figure this out. Any ideas on this? Duke, 69 912.
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Baltimore/DC area
Posts: 120
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When you measured the angle (of dangle) was the car off the ground? Was everything disconnected from the radius arm? Sorry, but I think the later is necessary for accuracy. As far as measuring hieght, I think you're better off with the method outlined in my second response (which I bit from the manual as well as Wayne's "101 Projects.."). The reason is that bodypanels shift and get tweeked over the years (or get outright bent as Duke suggested). Lastly, are your tires aired up evenly?
Thanks everybody for the advise on doors. I'll try again once I can recruit a girlfriend/mistress/wife (or combination) to hold the doors while I turn wrenches. Duke, strange situation indeed. Only guess I can throw out is worn shocks. EIGHT DAYS 'TIL HERSHEY!!! |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Redding,CA USA
Posts: 286
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Shocks are Bilstein Gas-less than 3yrs old. So stiff you can hardly push the rear down. Ride height never changes sitting in the garage-only after the car is driven several miles. Strange indeed.
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