912E airflow meter??

johnjk99 · 05-07-2002, 12:00 PM

Recently I had a strange problem of the engine dying. When I started it the engine would only run for a few seconds and die. The next day it did it and later in the the day it ran fine. I took it to a shop and the mech. claimed I needed a new airflow meter. He tapped on it while it was running and the engien died. I drove the car home and the engine died I had to stop and tap on the airflow meter to get it running again. I purchased a used one with the same part number #0280 201 006. The used one caused the engine to slightly miss at around 2000-3000 RPM. I put the old back on and the engine runs fine. Did some tapping on it but, still works okay. Do you think there might have been some crud caught in it causing the thing to short out (and later broke free)? With this airflow meter the engine idle will vary at times from 1000-1800 RPM even after adjusting the throttle body idle screw. At this point I can take the used airflow meter back (it was $75 and the seller told me I could ). Or I can buy a rebuilt one for about $250. But, do I need it? Also, Will one from a 914 or bus work on this car? Or is there something else I am overlooking? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

John

WFBowen · WFBowen's Garage

John:
It's a problem I encountered with mine. They do wear out, as there's a pickup arm on a small circuit board in there which, according to the position of the flap, sends the message to the computer for mixture. You might try opening the unit up (prying off the black plastic cover on top) and spraying some electrical cleaner in there, as well as carefully inspecting the pickup surface for worn spots, etc. Make sure the cleaner you get is safe for plastics and non-corrosive. Keep in mind that Bosch probably won't accept this unit as a core if the original silicone seal has been broken.
I'm not sure about using the 914 unit, but I've seen one and they sure look identical, in & out- probably just a slightly different signal map.
As far as the used one you purchased, did you adjust the idle mixture (on top of the airflow meter in a deeply recessed hole?) Try it (clockwise for rich) and see if it settles your idle down. If it does, I'd keep it, as your old one sounds like it could let you down at the worse possible time (bridges, freeway, etc.)
Good luck,
Bill.

johnjk99 · 05-07-2002, 04:13 PM

When I had the used one on the car I turned the mixture screw to different positions to see if I could get rid of the miss. It helped a little but didn't clear up. I have the old one on and set at 1 & 1/4 turns out. What is the recommended setting? The car is idling at about 1100 right now but will only idle for about 2 minutes and dies. The only remedy is to turn up the idle screw (throttle body) and then the idle is about 1800, I can't seem to get a happy medium. Other than the idle the car runs fine with the old air flow meter. The lid has the appaerance of being pryed off many times and the last time it was sealed pretty good, as I can't seem to get it off without it snaping. Is there some type of silicone remover? What would be the recommended throttle body idle screw setting?
Thanks for the advice,
John

WFBowen · WFBowen's Garage

John: I think your idle screw (airflow sens.) is right on. As you probably know, it's sort of a fail-safe design, and, unlike carb. idle screws, the car will run with it fully closed. I know it's hard to tell with these cars, but do you have any idea if the motor is running rich or lean? Are you absolutely positive there are no vacuum leaks? These usually prevent a stable idle/midrange. Double check the large elbow air hose connecting the airflow meter to the throttle body - check underneath the elbow bend as they develop hairline openings there. I still wouldn't rule out a bad airflow meter, as the wiper arm inside would probably tend to wear out in the idle to midrange part of the track. As for removing the cover, I'd just try to keep prying, maybe warming it with a dryer to soften up the plastic.
Bill.