|
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Arlington Heights, IL, USA
Posts: 637
|
How do you determine if your front tie rod ends are in need of replacing? Mine look OK but I don't know how to test them. No shakes or wobbles from the steering she tracks fine. No pulling to the left or right either.
Since I am replacing the front suspension bushings because of squeeks the tie rod ends condition should be checked out while I am there. Thanks, Ron
__________________
RonD 69912T |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Falls church Va
Posts: 725
|
The tie rod ends are just ball joints so if they have any looseness or if they squeak when you turn the car from lock to lock then replace them. Also check the rubber boots to see that they are not cracked or split. That will let grit and water in and the joint will eventually fail. It is easer to check the tie rods when the front end if up and you can check the ball joints as well.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Arlington Heights, IL, USA
Posts: 637
|
Green:
Thanks for the info. My tie rods are a little loose vertically and one boot is ripped so I plan to replace them. What is the recommended removal tool for the rod ends? The two prong wedge or the spreader with screws? I used the two prong type years ago and remember beating on it with a hammer to break the rod end loose, not sure I want to beat my 912. There must be a more gentle way. I have never seen the German removal tool shown in all the 912 Repair Manuals for sale anywhere. I think it screws onto the tie rod stud and pushes it out. Thanks, Ron D
__________________
RonD 69912T |
||
|
|
|
|
abit off center
|
Since they are already bad I always find a BFH works for me!!
Craig |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Falls church Va
Posts: 725
|
There is some sense to Craig’s BFH as you are removing something that you will toss but you are also beating on the steering arm too. The pickle fork or ball joint splitter (the two pronged thing) works OK but I always gently add some heat to the arm and spray some WD40 on the tie rod bolt while it is hot. This creates a differential in temp and helps loosen things up. The type that fit over the steering arm and push the tie rod bolt out are nice but could be expensive for the shade tree mechanic that might do 2 sets in 10 years.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: UK
Posts: 40
|
You may find it cheeper to ask for VW Beetle 1967 onwards track rod ends. They are exactly the same. But make sure you get them with right hand thread into the track rod. Beetles use 2 different track rod ends one with left and one with right hand threads. The Porsche only uses the right hand threaded ones.
|
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Arlington Heights, IL, USA
Posts: 637
|
Thanks for the tips guy's.
I ordered the Porsche tie rod ends with the RH threads from PP. Also ordered a fork wedge removal tool AND the C-clamp compression type of removal tool from J.C. Whitney, not sure which tool I will end up using. I will let you know how they worked out. I am not a big fan of the hammer because I usually mess up something else. I am trying to figure out how to remove & replace one tie rod end at a time so I don't have to have the toe-in checked right away. I am planning to lift one front wheel at a time to do the tie rod switch but clamp the brake disk to something rigid so it does not move during the switch. She is true as a arrow now. After I do the rear suspension bushings I plan to have my alignment checked. Later, Ron D
__________________
RonD 69912T |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Falls church Va
Posts: 725
|
Measure first! Things move.
It is an easy job. Jack the front wheels up and scribe a straight line around each in about the middle. (Just spin the wheel and hold the marker on the tire) Put the car back on the ground and roll it back and forth 2 or 3 feet to unload the suspension from being jacked up. Make sure the steering wheel is centered Measure the distance from line to line on the front and rear of the tires. The front should be a little less the rear. The difference is the toe in. Install the new rod ends. (Use the pusher type remover if you have a choice and a little heat makes things go a lot easer) Make sure to check the rubber bushings on the inner side of the tie rods, as this is a point of much toe problems. The turbo tie rods are an excellent and economical upgrade if you need both bushings as well as ends. When you are done installing the rod ends repeat the drop and roll. Then check and adjust to the old settings and recenter the steering wheel if needed. Now the fun part, the test drive. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Arlington Heights, IL, USA
Posts: 637
|
Installed both tie rod ends this weekend. Used the screw type seperator. The right one poped right off the left one was a lot harder but finally came off.
Set the toe-in with the tie rod ends out of the sockets then adjusted the ends until they fit the socket holes. Had to go back twice to adjust the steering wheel angle. She is back in service and everthing worked out well. Thanks for all your suggestions. Ron D
__________________
RonD 69912T |
||
|
|
|