Radius arm removing
 

Hi everyone,

I'm want to remove the radius arm to replace the inner and outer bushing.

My question is which bolt do i remove first and on?

The picture shows that I already removed the lower bolt from the shock absorber and the radius arm is hanging freely.

The 4 bolts that hold the torsion bar cover, to the rear of it are the toe in and camber adjustment bolts and the last bolts that holds the radius arm to the trailing arm.

My question is which bolt do i removed first..and on?

Thanks in advance
Baohttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373247861.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373247884.jpg

bushing replacment
 

can's speak to the bolt sequence question, but your bushing replacement operation prompts me to ask a related question. an old timer suggested to me that the need to replace said bushing is as simple as rotating them 180 deg. he said that the only ware was the compression on the top of the bushing. does anyone have a thought on his theory?

OP - Doesn't matter which you undo first, you're going to be undoing them all eventually.
Second poster - I think he's referring to the covers. That'll work, but only for a little while. You won't be able to rotate the inner bushings without ruining them.

Hello Scott,

The reason I asked about which bolts to go first is because I thought maybe there are still tension from the radius arm, and that removing certain bolts lessen the chance the radius arm snapped due its tension. Maybe i'm completely wrong about it.

Thanks
Bao

Hi Bao,

There is no tension left on the arm, the torsion bar sets its position as long as the arm can move free. I saw you noted the inclination of the arm. This makes only sense if you reassemble it with the car in exact the same position. Basically it should be done with an exact leveled car. Then you will be able to use the angles specified in the manual to realize the correct riding heigth. You also can decide for the US or European heighth.

I'm not sure if the mechanical instrument you are using, is exact enough for this pupose. Left and right should be very close - within minutes - because there is no fine adjustment of the rear heigth possible, contrary to the front A-arm torsion bar adjustment.

Perhaps a distance measurement related to a fixed point of the body will give you a more exact reproducable position of the arm.

Otto

Hello Otto,

Thanks for your comment. I plan to replace the bushing only, and not to lower the rear suspension or change the angle of the radius arm. My angle finder instrument help me to re install the radius arm at the same angle that are currently shown.

Now that I know that there are no tension left on the radius arm, I can proceed removing the bolts without any concern.

Thanks again
Bao

I had to remove the lower rear bolt on both sides first. It has a spacer and allows the spring plate to fully fall to it lowest position so it's not resting on the spacer. My sequence:

Lower rear bolt.

Mark the toe and camber bolts.

All bolts connection the spring plate to the trailing arm.

Other 3 bolts on torsion bar cover.