Fuel lines

[Brett Voigt]

I just shipped my car from my grandpa's house to mine, and I can now work on it whenever I want This weekend I want to put in a fire extinguisher and fix some of the wiring to turn signals. I have no idea when the fuel lines were last updated, so I want to swap those out as well. Any recommendations for which fuel line type to use? Also about much time should I budget to do the swap? Thanks.

[Donald T]

The fuel lines are probably OK and just need some cleaner run through them and a little air to blow them out. They don't really wear out but can be bent or broken. You'll want to replace the brake hoses going to the calipers (I prefer steel lines as they won't swell over time and get spongy. Be sure your master cylinder is good as now would be the time to replace it. Of course replace brake fluid with new good fluid. New pads are cheap. Rebuilding the calipers (not cheap) and replacing the rotors would be all that's left if you still don't like the performance.

[Peter Graham]

Originally Posted by Donald T

The fuel lines are probably OK...

I have to disagree: rubber fuel lines should be replaced every 6-8 years, especially if they are old and see gasoline with alcohol. Neglecting fuel line replacement is a good way to burn the car to the ground. (fire extinguisher: +1)

Chassis:
(1) a short length between the fuel tank and the tunnel hard line,
(2) and another short length between the tunnel hard line and hard line the runs into the engine compartment (around/over the transmission nose - often neglected).

In the engine compartment:
(3) hard line to fuel pump (may include a fuel filter - resist the temptation to use a cheap $2 plastic filter here),
(4) fuel pump to carb hard line,
(5) a pesky 4" piece forward of the fan shroud that connects two pieces of hard line - one that feeds the right carb.
(6) If there are Webers installed, there will probably be a short piece feeding each carb (Solexes should have hard lines/banjo bolts at the carbs).

The best fuel hose is the German braided line; a good second is standard fuel hose with internal reinforcement. I use clamps at ever juncture. I don't have the sizes off the top of my head. Time budget is around two hours; allow a day if you've never done it before.

Long-reach needle-nose pliers help (Harbor Freight, Northern Tool), especially the line from the tank to tunnel, above the rack/front suspension cross member.




+1 on replacing rubber brake lines, purging old fluid, rebuilding/replacing master cylinder/caliper seals; check ball joints, tie rod ends, rubber bushings in steering suspension; replace tires if older than 6 years (read date code on tire). Brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years. Your wellbeing rests on tires, steering and braking: nearly everything else can break and not endanger you and your passenger(s).

I'll try to find photos of each section of fuel hose and post later.

Peter

[Peter Graham]

From tank to tunnel hardline (and with front suspension/rack removed):



Line near transmission (with transmission removed; photo from AFR meter install):


Engine Compartment lines (yours will probably differ - no inline electric pump, no line support bracket/rub grommet):


'Pesky' carb supply connector:

[BoxsterGT]

Great information from Peter.

However, I can say from experience the cloth braided hose is not made with the latest rubber compound available and will not hold up against ethanol fuels.

I keep in stock E-85 rated fuel hose from Germany and will sell it in any length up to 20 Meters.

Please inquire by email only.

Len at Autosportengineering dot com

[Peter Graham]

Originally Posted by BoxsterGT

Great information from Peter.

However, I can say from experience the cloth braided hose is not made with the latest rubber compound available and will not hold up against ethanol fuels.

I keep in stock E-85 rated fuel hose from Germany and will sell it in any length up to 20 Meters.

Please inquire by email only.

Len at Autosportengineering dot com

That is great info; I will share your post as a PSA with the 912 BBS community.

Thanks,
Peter

[Donald T]

OMG, I was thinking brake lines in my response not fuel lines. Duh.

[Brett Voigt]

Wow, thank you for that great post.. When looking at lines, I saw a few different diameters. Which diameter is recommended (everything is stock, also have a 69' car with 68' engine if that matters) and about what length of line should I buy? Thanks

I also bought a halotron extinguished from Buckeye that should be arriving early next week. As for brake lines, i need new rotors and pads as well, so that project is in the works.

[Puma]

This is a great thread and hopefully will save some cars from burning to the ground.

+1 for solid info.

[69porsche]

Peter,
Great post! you set the standard on how to illustrate what the problems and what to look for!
Gordon