The German cars are required by the Government, because of the narrow streets, to have the parking light on the side of the street turned on at night. So both of the parking lights will work when the key is off. So the right is correct and the left one needs to be checked.

what jaems said is correct .. car off... parked on street... indicator turned on for the side facing traffic illuminated. check your bulbs...
bob

That's an interesting concept but I feel it would drain the battery if you parked on the street overnight. From the research I've done, the bulbs are correct. All part numbers, wattage and voltage match the numbers on the inside of the turn signal housing and also double checked with stoddard.

Never the less, that was the law.

your 69 has plastic bulb holders that you insert into the light unit housing. make sure that the bulb holders are seating firmly in the unit... that completes the ground.. and then the housing unit grounds to the fender.

Awesome. I have been restoring my 912 1968 for 12 years and it is finally all going together just put the front blinkers in rear blinkers on and like you said mine are not working But I do have one question if the headlights are not connected could that be the problem do you need everything as a complete set for the lights to work I had some bad connectors on my headlights so I cut the wires and I am going to splice new wires to the headlights and I have not done that yet
So bottom line I have no brake lights no blinkers are working is it because I have not spliced the headlights in yet

Awesome thanks. I did see in the rear blinkers I had a factory connector for the brown wires to a ground clip but in the front I only had three connectors for each light assembly blinkers
And in the front left blinker assembly there was a brown wire screwed to the frame in the other end was just a bald wire I am assuming this is the one that you wrap around the screw that attaches the assembly do you need this on the right side as well or will they all complete each other with this one wire to the body

Thank you. UOTE=bobrestore;9113727]you have the right idea .... put in all of the correct bulbs before you replace the turn signal switch. It might be ok and just need cleaning and a return spring. if my memory is correct ...those brown wires with the round end would go on the captive nut on the body to ground.... the screw that goes into the lenses completes the capture ...... same place I put my additional pig tail ground.... also..... if the 69 is the same as the earlier cars ... you will want to get all of the bulbs working including the license plate lights to get the prober response from the system.... if you neglect the license plate lights you should have no problem getting the turn signals to blink but you will notice on the gauge when you use your turn signals the indicator will operate properly ...showing right turn and left turn appropriately and not just flashing both directions at once on the gauge.... bob[/QUOTE]

I read this post with much sympathy, and it seems that some of us with our '69s are in the same boat. I've been reading other posts on other blog sites for about a year now and I am part of that frustrated group. I still haven't solved my turn signal issue.
Last year I changed my battery and all of a sudden I had lighting problems. I then went through everything on the electrical system: cleaned the grounds, the fuse connections, the bulb connections, changed the instrument indicator lights, the relays in the trunk; I went through everything and kept notes. I performed electrical trouble-shooting with an ohmmeter, but I was out of my depth with that.
Every light eventually came back to proper function except the turn signals. I cannot get the indicator light to indicate, nor the signal lights to blink. The relay doesn't click. The turn signal stalk performs the headlight function fine.
I do not want to pull the unit out yet, so I am removing the switch assembly from its bracket to see if there is anything in it that can be cleaned, like contacts.
I have a feeling that it might be a dirty contact, and replacing that unit is both expensive and iffy, as one is replacing a 50 year-old part with another one that might be as defective, as the parts strippers who sell these for $400-$500 give no guarantee that the replacement will function.
The suggestion to place a separate ground wire to chassis at each light unit is something that I have not yet tried. Next step on my to do list before I give up and perform hari-kiri...:(
=rds

As I mentioned in a previous post, after replacing my battery last year on my '69 912, my turn signal switch stopped working; it does not turn on the left or right signal lights (nor the dash indicator light) when key is in "on" position and switch activated. All other lights work, including the emergency flasher (relay clicks too). After looking at others' posted solutions on this forum back to 2000, I have done the following:

1. cleaned all fuses and light contacts
2. checked all grounds, including ignition body ground straps
3. sprayed DeOxit on switch contacts, capacitor pots, signal relay
4. switched around the three silver pots in the trunk to confirm that they all worked
5. switched out the turn signal flasher with two other purchased ones to confirm its operation is okay, then put original back in since it worked fine for flasher.
6. tested the flasher relay by pulling it halfway out and testing circuit 49a to confirm that it was flashing. I tested "C" to make sure that it was ground. The other two pins: I do not know what they do.

I'm stuck at this point. I am thinking that the turn signal switch is bad: the headlight functions work on it while the turn signals don't. Everyone who is selling a turn signal switch replacement lists it as "used" and "untested." An untested part with no guarantee - great... However, I went below the dash and have marked the connectors in case I need to pull the signal switch and replace it.
To be frank, I am not very skilled with electrical debugging. I can operate a test light and an ohm-meter, but I am at a loss on how to track things down.
Thanks,
=rds

1969 911E/S wiring diagram
 

You might already have this wiring diagram, but I found it very useful troubleshooting problems with my '69 911. It's for a 1969 911E/S but the T is pretty much the same.

http://content.us.porsche-clubs.porsche.com/porscheclubs/klassieke-porsche-911-en-912-club/files/69-911.pdf?fbclid=IwAR0HfxoZlkNPLlGwiYitT1BDEJpm50oay mLH9tw654zqt3e-cifTda0KDfs

OMG,
I am another 1969 owner and the electricals are an issue! One year only for 911/912. My car is a project and was outside (covered) for 7 years so Imagine that there was some unwanted corrosion. It seems these plug-in connectors are a big issue. If you replace these 6 pole connectors, part no. 901-612-330-00 are somewhat expensive and the cables colors don't match our cables. It helps if you clean them, use dielectric grease on all connections (small amount) and simply open them up with a blade as the pins have a split cross on them. I replaced all 5 pin relays and that helped a lot. Then I replaced the flasher and that fixed a lot of the intermittent issues on some signal lights.

Sometimes on the rear you will have to open the two tabs carefully on each rear bulb connector, clean and open the contacts. Then reassemble (bakelite center pieces) without breaking them. Now I have an issue that the front left signal works when it wants not when I need it to work! My friend (thanks God he is a qualified mechanic and loves electrical work) Says we will have to "bridge" that connection bypassing one of the pins. I have replaced the 4 sides small bulbs and license plate bulbs with inexpensive LED's and they are bright and beautiful!

Regards and hope this helps!

Jose