Front Pan Install
 

While I've been doing my minor front strut, torsion bar, a-arm bushing and wheel bearing revival, I found that the right front a-arm bushing was welded to the front pan. To get the a-arm off, I had to grind it down. Low and behold it was welded on by a PO due to a slighly rusted front pan, with no nut inserts for the bushing bolts. The rust is only at the right front bushing and the rest of it looks good with only minor surface rust in a few spots. Either way, since it's a very structural place, I want to fix it correctly and get a short suspension pan and change it out. I ordered the pan, some weld through primer, a metal hole punch ($25 off eBay, planning to do plug welds), seam sealer, rubberized undercoating and a new fuel tank gasket. I read one DIY forum that said to replace the fuel tank support bar. Mine looks ok, and a new one is $80+, so is this necessary? Also, is it recommended to place some JP weld on top of the seam (in trunk, between front pan and chasis)? Thanks

Nevermind, I pulled the fuel tank out today and the fuel tank support doesn't look quite as good as I originally thought. Might as well change it too.

On the slippery slope you go

And to think... I thought I was going to drive it around this summer, lol
#PorschePassion

I have everything I need to do the job, the next step is to cut out the old front pan. I've seen in other build where people place a 2x4 under the mid/front of the car and place about 4 or so jack stands underneath. I was thinking... what if I just bolt in the suspension crossmember and place 2 jack stands under that, or even just place a jack stand under each bolt spot? It's a good distance away from where I'll be welding and I feel like the car would be more stable. Also, with the weight resting on where the suspension bolts in, wouldn't this decrease the risk of the chasis deforming from any heat during welding?

if you are just replacing the upper gas tank support and the typical partial lower suspension pan piece... you don't have much to worry about, the front of the trunk under the hood latch and the side rails that the fenders bolt to keep the area intact. I have done a few of these and they have turned out fine... I can tell by the questions you ask that you will intuitively do it correctly.... dive in and enjoy what you are about to produce............... bob p. s. don't forget to reinforce the new suspension pan at the front were the torsion bearing (rubber bushing) is .... look at some of the pictures of people doing the repair, you will see they weld a saddle connecting the area were the bolts go....

Just make sure that you keep it squared.

That in mind, I currnetly have the rear wheels on the ground. Is it recommended to jack up the rear and place stands under the rear chasis?

Search for Fixer and look for his '68 thread. His dolly is the simplest, cheapest solution to undercarriage rust repair. Car can be tilted on its side and is supported by the suspension points.

I built this dolly myself after owning a welding setup for about an hour. Granted, I have only built up the lower part to dis-assemble the car so far. Now that the car is stripped I need to make the rest for blasting and rust repair. I do plan to reinforce the welds with bolts as a safety measure since I have limited experience welding.

The concept is better than anything I've seen.

It's been about 3 months, but I finally have the pan welded in, the supports welded in and have 1 small section left to do of the tank support then GRIND! The end is sooo close. After grinding down the weld and sanding, I'll certainly apply seam sealer then ruberized undercoat. Any recomendations on which brand to use? Also, should I place a primer coat before the rubberized coat? Last should I paint over the rubberized coat? I live in the northeast and do not have a heated garag, so I'm hoping to finish this before it gets too cold...

Also I still need to change out front struts, wheel bearings and maybe brake discs/pads, but all that can be done in the cold.

Brett,

Use a quality brand undercoating like Würth or 3M. I prefer to spray a coat of epoxy primer to protect the metal, then the coating in a few layers, paying attention to the right factory near texture. Should occur hair cracks in the coating, the primer will protect the metal against rust.

The early 911/912 only have the black coating on the bottom and inside the trunk and engine bay.

Don't apply the primer and coating during low temps. Read the instructions before you start.

Good luck with your work and hope winter starts late ...

Otto

Drill out all pinch welds (aboout 100) as you get into it it will become easier to understand what you need to do. Be sure to test fit your suspension before all final welds are made.
I like to support from the bumper support or stabilizer support. Remove suspension carfully. Replace all suspension bushes when done prior to refitting.
I reinforce the pinch welded suspension pick up points with a bead of weld all the way around to prevent future fatique and thus rust. Real epoxy primer, body shutz, more primer and good paint are a must. I also zinc primer the cavities between everthing as it goes together. Don't use weld thru primer as it sucks. Zinc may burn but it will migrate to bare steel on its own later.. Good luck.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1476394724.jpg
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