912e axle shaft vs 914

[hashishas1]

Hello,
Can someone please tell me if 914 axle shafts are the same as 912e?? Could not find that info yet. Mine are toast and there's a guy selling them for very good price. Attached the photo of 914 ones.

New members usually introduce themselves, preferably with a name and a pic of their car. We try to be not an anonymous database.

Porsche 912E has a different gear box (915 based). The 914 has the early 911 based gear box. If I remember well, the outer diameter of the flanges is different.

You say "mine are toast". If the CV joints are toast, replace them and you can drive many kmiles without problems. It might cost some more, but in the end it's cheaper. I never would buy a set axles/CV joints unseen.

Regards,

Otto

[hashishas1]

Thanks for info Otto. I really thought I introduces myself as i did on other forums. I'm Mario live in Chicago. Bought #1236 a few weeks ago in Florida. Now long hours in my garage until March of 2017....

[Jaems]

Otto is right.

Never buy used CV's unless you're going to have them serviced and checked first. Also never buy new ones that are not OEM. You will most likely end up replacing them. However, you might be one of the lucky ones and get a little better service. I once tried some new ones that were not OEM and they lasted about 500 miles.

You will want the Löbro CV joint for 911/ 912E 1975-1984 923.332.032.00

And No, the 914 CV's will not work with the 912E

If yours are still serviceable . You might try rebuilding them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LsytyVzokBg

Right Jaems, the Löbro CV joints are the right choice!

I just rebuilt the axles for my '78 911 Targa project. The Löbros come with a new locking ring and the correct grease. Just perfect.

Otto

[hashishas1]

One shaft has both boots completely destroyed and i have no idea how much it was driven before. Moves freely about 2 inches from side to side. There was no movement in circular motion when wheels on the ground. Huge vibration when accelerating.
On quick observation the other side looks ok. What you suggestion would be? Change the whole shaft or cv joint? Both joints?Do both sides ? Any more tests to perform?

I think you'll have some work to do. Start with the removal of the axles and take the joints apart to see if and how much damage there is - when the boots are gone and sand and debris entered the CV joints, it will have killed them.

Take the CV joints apart and inspect them. There are some threads here on the board and videos on youtube.com discussing how to take them apart and judge them.

As mentioned before, if the CV joints are gone, replace them by new ones. If in doubt, replace them. And, don't forget four new boots! Important! Work clean, clean and clean again, otherwise your $250 investment is gone within months.

If the axle is not bend, clean it, give it some paint as rost protection. Reassemble the shaft with boots and CV joints. When you install your refurbished axles, it's advised to use new bolts and Schnorr washers. If you want to reuse the old bolts, fit them at least with new Schnorr washers.

The vibration during acceleration can be caused by worn CV joints, but also by unbalanced wheels, tires (parked for long time?), bearings or worn suspension bushings, and .... In other words: you have to check at least all these possible causes.

Otto

[hashishas1]

Well i have the whole axle shaft ordered today. Got it for a good price at ******** so it helped to make up my mind. About that vibration i doubt that's wheels or bearing. Will how it goes fter changing that axle. Huge thanks for input guys! this car will be very different in spring.... keep you posted..