TS2 removal

[jkeyzer]

Could someone please direct me to the post about removing TS2 (cyl head temp sensor)? I can't find it. My sensor is showing 10k when the engine is cold (haven't tested warm yet) and it might be causing some weird problems I am having.

The strange thing is that a 10k reading should make the engine run rich at least until it warms up, but my plugs are very light...

I have read it is easy to strip the head. I don't want any of that!

Edit - The post I am referring to is DD's method, where you don't have to cut up a socket. At least I think that's what it was...

[Jim Chambers]

The best method yet was posted somewhere in the last week or two. Disconnect the wire and wrap it tightly around screwdriver shank. This will create a "pig tail" or coil of wire. If you use a deep socket you can compress coil into the socket as you drop it over the sensor.

[3D914]

Jeff,

Jim is on the right track. I have done this several times, and only once with a special tool. Here's what I do:

Do the following with the engine cold, and new sensor in hand. Do not attempt this if you're in a hurry. Take a deep breath and take your time.

Since the sensor is bad, I just cut the wire down as close as possible. Then using a deep 13mm socket and extention, remove the sensor.
To install the new sensors I simply coil the wire around a few times so the sensor fits in the socket without being pushed out by the coiled wire. The washer should not slide off the threads as there is a slight shoulder.

With the sensor in socket and an extension, I then hand-thread the sensor into the head. It helps to get your head down into the engine bay with a light at least once so you can see the angle. I then gently hand turn it to start it. You should be able to feel the threads and that its turning smoothly. Any binding, and you should back it out and start again slowly. Once it screws in by hand I then attach the ratchet and lightly tighten. Then use your fingers or a small screw driver to fish out the wire. Connect it up and away you go!

Regards,

[jkeyzer]

Do the intake runners need to come off on the 1.7 to get access?

[Bruce Allert]

Nope! I just did my 1.7 last month. The angle to puting the sensor back in is a few degrees toward the rear of the car on a horizontal line. It does not go in straight as I found out by accident.
bruce

[jkeyzer]

Great!

I just found out today that two of my injector hoses are leaking, so now I need to fix that as well. That's a higher priority, right?

[Bleyseng]

I should say so! Leaking injectors hoses results in gas spraying all over the engine which will catch fire! Yikes!
Geoff

[jkeyzer]

I found out tonight that on at least one injector, it's not the hose that is leaking but the injector body itself!!!

I also noticed that two of my injectors are the ancient black kind. All the spray patterns are fair and flow looks ok so I haven't decided if I should just replace the 2 leaky ones or all of them. Anyone have some extra ones for sale? (See classified ad...)

Actually if there is a cheap source for new ones (no offense PP) I'd like to know that also. $300 for 4 injectors?

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

From what I could see when I was actually price shopping (which was a while ago), $66 per injector is cheap. Particularly for the real thing. The local folks here in the Bay Area used to pay over $100 each for injectors--even shops did for a while!!

The method that I posted a while back involved grinding the corner off of a 3" extension to make room for the wire. I have done the "coil up the wire" thing and I'm not real wild about it. I have also done the "cut a slot in the socket" thing, and I don't really like that either.

--DD