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Join Date: Sep 1999
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Engine Removal

Can anyone help with the engine removal of my 1.7? Can I just remove the engine and remove the tranny later? I no longer have FI so that will mean less electrical connections to unhook, but I'm not too familiar with this kind of removal. I've removed V8's before and I'm mechanically inclined. So all help will be useful. Thanks for your reply's I'm trying to remove this weekend.
Old 09-24-1999, 03:01 PM
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It is easier to remove the engine and trans as one unit....Pros can do it in less than hour. I can do it in about 1 1/2 hours depending on how stuck the cv joint bolts are...it is not rocket science, buy your self a Haynes Manual. It has step by step instructions....

Good Luck
Old 09-24-1999, 03:18 PM
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The easiest way to do it is to pull both the motor and tranny at the same way. The first time I dropped my motor was a disaster. I used a single face jack and a peice of long plywood the drop it and it tipped over and I had to drag it out. Something you don't want to duplicate. The best way it to get one of those hand truck/dolly with wheels on the backside so you can lay it on it's back and roll it around. Raise the car with two jacks (having another person helps) and slide the dolly under the car so it sit directly under the motor and tranny.( the leverage lip towards the front of the car, the hadle to pull it, towards the rear. lower the car on it and the assembly should sit right on it. (Use a 2x4 under the tranny to keep it from falling backwards) Just unbolt the engine bar from the chassis and unblot the four tranny mmount bolts(dont take off the big nuts!) Simply raise the car evenly on both sides as high as it will go and pull out the dolly with the engine/tranny on it of course). Don't forget to disconnect everything, ground strap, control cables, fuel line, battery cables, CV axles, engine wiring. Oh also you may have to manuver the sheet metal to clear the rear suspension..
Good luck

Old 09-24-1999, 03:21 PM
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In Pelican's tech articles, there is an excellent article to help with the removal of an engine.

4 bits of advice,

1. Don't forget to remove the ground connection around the back of the transmission.

2. Remove the heat exchangers prior to removing the engine and xmission.

3. Make sure to get an 8mm 12 point allen wrench for the CV joints. Also go to Sears an buy a 5/16 mm allen socket. Then remove 5/16 allen and install the 8mm 12 point. Now you can use a 3/8 wratchet to remove the CV bolts.

4. Oh, and be sure to buy new CV gaskets, muffler gaskets, and heat exchanger gaskets



------------------
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Old 09-24-1999, 04:42 PM
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If you do it the way I mentioned you don't need to remove the exhaust until you get it out of the car. Also no-offence but what the hell is a 5/16 mm socket?
Old 09-24-1999, 04:51 PM
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I can't think of any better advice on engine removal than to look over a book first, but to then make your own 'engine removal checklist', with whatever order you prefer. It's all to human to forget just one point or issue and screw up in the most annoying way.

And now that Jim O. mentions it (post immediately above), I don't think I've ever seen a 12 point allen tool for 914 cv bolt removal that was not already mounted into a ratchet socket. Anyway, Jim S. describes making such a tool from the two separate parts, which is fine, but they are already available through 914 suppliers--whom anyone removing an engine will naturally be dealing with anyway concerning renewal of gaskets and such.

Just don't try to use a VW 6 point star on those bolts just because that tool is easier to get in town (and cheaper); you're more likely to strip out a bolt head with that.
Also, minor note--and this applies to most 914 owners--you may find those cv bolt heads fairly packed with uck, so put that allen in there and give the back of the ratchet head a firm tap or two for good measure, to make sure the allen tool is seated as deeply as possible into the bolt, and you'll be safe n' sure to have a viable bolt you can re-use for reinstallation (and bloodless knuckles when through . --john
Old 09-24-1999, 05:39 PM
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One thing about that Allen wrench. It isn't one. A twelve-point Allen wrench will have sixty-degree corners on the outside, while the proper tool has ninety degree corners. The shape is three squares superimposed over each other, but rotated 30 degrees each. That's why it's often called a "triple square".

Using the wrong tool makes it easier for the heads of the bolts to strip. Not a happy thing.

At VW Bug shops, it's also known as a "CV Joint Socket". They use the same bolts to hold their CVs on as we do--and the 911s, too!

--DD
Old 09-24-1999, 06:30 PM
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I made a motor creeper using low profile swivel casters with wide wheels & a 2' square scrap of 3/4" plywood. I place the rear of car on jack stands. After removing all the cables,bolts and exhaust, ect. I center a floor jack under the creeper and lower the motor. After the motor is on the floor lift the tail of the trans up, roll the jack out from under the creeper, roll the motor and trans out from under the car. Lots of ways to do this, But It works for me. BTW I do this alone.

[This message has been edited by rich (edited 09-24-1999).]
Old 09-24-1999, 07:27 PM
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Just my $.02 on the matter.



Get a friend to help (what guy wouldn't want to take a motor out of a Porsche?).Double check to see if everythig is unhooked. My first time I didn't unhook the throtle cable and ruined it. Drop it slowly and make sure nothing is binding or catching on anything. For the CV joints the guy I bought it off of helped me get them out with a small pipewrench (I mean small about four inches long and only opened a inch). However you get them out is up to you. Since I work in a mechanical field, I had my bolt supplier get me some socket head cap screws (grade 8+) the same pitch and length of the originals. I forget the exact size but you can use a standard allen wrench to put them in/out. With some help I lowered the motor & trans out with a floor jack under the motor (it takes two people to slide it from under the car, and hold the trans up). Once it was out from under the car I used some scrap 2x4's to support under the motor and a old chevelle rim and a few 2x4's to support the trans. I know this may sound like a crude way to do it but it worked. Good luck.
Old 09-25-1999, 02:55 PM
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FWIW, having recently done this (without a strong, dumb assistant), the 914 Engine Drop method from this site worked really well.

Using the two threaded rods to drop the engine is a bit slower (add another 20 minutes or so), but it is much more controlable. It is easy to catch your engine sheetmetal or injectors and mess them up. Slowly turning the nuts to lower each side allows you to check your clearances. I highly recommend it.

It also was much simpler to remove everything (tranny, exhaust, etc.) intact.

Old 09-27-1999, 08:31 AM
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For those who hate the CV joint bolts, there is a cheeper and dare I say better solution. I went to the local hardware store, and bought exact matches of the 8mm 12 point head bolts, however I got them in Allan heads. Now I use a normal Allan wrench for installation and removal. Also I've looked into it, and you can get a hex head bolt, just be prepared to do very little rotations with an open end wrench. Just my thoughts...
Old 09-28-1999, 10:33 AM
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