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Next question, best brake pads?

In trying to keep the teener original, I really do not want to change calipers to the BMW units. I have rebuilt all four calipers, bled and bled, and am currently on the phone while typing this to get one of those T's from a bug to replace the proportioning valve. I have a good firm pedal, but the blasted thing acts like the pads do not have much friction stoping power. I have Mintex in the rear, and some off brand up front. What do I replace the front pads with? I am not racing, and I do not care if they wear fast, I just want a ton of stopping friction. Well, as much as a 914 has.....
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Old 04-14-2003, 01:25 PM
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Porterfield "street" pads.

--DD
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Old 04-15-2003, 08:25 AM
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I have good luck with the Halk HP Plus for street. Also, good for some DE's. (now if I can talk Pelican into stocking HP Plus and the HP Blues for the track)
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Old 04-15-2003, 12:14 PM
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Now, where do I find Porterfield brakes, I looked (quickly) and I did not see them on the Pellican site.
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Old 04-15-2003, 01:07 PM
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I installed the mintex on the front...pretty happy.

I'll try these other brands when the times comes though...
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Old 04-15-2003, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by kdfoust
Porterfield

Now that I'm thinking there was one issue with the Porterfield installation. The retainer pins have a large and a small pin on the front?rear? (don't remember) calipers. The Porterfield pad holes weren't large enough for the large retainer pin so I had to open it up (trivial for sure).

Good luck,
Kevin

Yes, I had that issue with the R4 (race) pads...you just have to slightly bore out one of the two holes on each rear pad. I had great satisfaction with the R4 pads, although they were very noisy.

I'm running Pagid pads now, but they are full-race compounds -- expensive and potentially not too rotor-friendly. Sure stop the car like crazy, though...
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Old 04-15-2003, 09:31 PM
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Race pads generally don't work (as in, the pedal is nice and firm and you're pushing with all your might and the car will not slow) for the first turn. They can be marginal for several more turns, as well. By the end of the warmup lap, they work, and they seem to just get better as they are used.

Street pads will work when cold. Brakes will almost always be cold during street driving, so it's a very bad idea to use race pads on the street. You also have cold brakes for most autoX runs, so street pads are recommended for autoXing as well.

I know Chris knows this, but I just want to make sure everyone else who reads this thread keeps that in mind.

--DD
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Old 04-16-2003, 07:35 AM
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The Pagid Orange is a good street/race combo....but they throw a LOT of dust. Most agressive pads do so and do not last as long as the run of the mill ones do.....

So if you don't mind changing pads more often and cleaning your shiny wheels....go for it.
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Old 04-16-2003, 07:39 AM
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$$$$89.00 for a set of Porterfield brakes for the front only???? Holy indebtedness Batman. I'm sorry, I aint spending no 90 bucks for a set of brake pads for a street car. Heck, the most expensive set of pads for a race bike I ever bought were less than $40.

Back to the drawing board. I am going to install my new "T" fitting and remove the pesky proportioning valve tonight and re bleed the system. I'll keep you all posted.
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Old 04-16-2003, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by sasquatch
$$$$89.00 for a set of Porterfield brakes for the front only???? Holy indebtedness Batman. I'm sorry, I aint spending no 90 bucks for a set of brake pads for a street car.
Sorry dOOd, that's cheap for primo pads. The Pagids, Hawks and Performance Friction pads can run 50% more than that! The pads in my car cost me about $290. Painful but had to be done.

DD is correct about being either super grabby or non-functional when cold (depending on the pad). You will want street pads. I was happy with Ferodo street pads, and also used PBR MetalMaster and Deluxe pads on various cars over the last few years. Those are cheaper than the Porterfield R4S's.
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Old 04-16-2003, 08:11 AM
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Jay, if you want to play you gotta pay... Cheaper than a brake swap, at least!

--DD
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Old 04-16-2003, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Dave at Pelican Parts
Jay, if you want to play you gotta pay... Cheaper than a brake swap, at least!

--DD
yeah, I hear you. I just don't like it.
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Old 04-16-2003, 01:16 PM
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Jay - How are the 1967 wives? I'm considering one of those....

James
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Old 04-16-2003, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by red-beard
Jay - How are the 1967 wives? I'm considering one of those....

James
They are a pretty decent model. Reaching the point that they smooth out but still allot of life left in them. Very tolerant to my hobbies and interests which is a good thing.
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Old 04-17-2003, 04:56 AM
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I HAVE BRAKES NOW!!!!!!

I removed the proportioning valve last night and replaced it with a brass 'T' from a bug. Wow, what a difference. I noticed it right away during bleeding. When using my power bleeder (Motive) before, I never got more than a trickle out of the rear calipers. Now, woosh, it flows nice and hard.

It still requires a firm foot, but the stopping power is in the very acceptable range now. Nothing like the 944, but very acceptable.

Thanks to all of you offering suggestions.
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Old 04-17-2003, 05:00 AM
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Aren't you gonna have too much rear bias w/o the prop valve with stock calipers? That could be reeeeeealy sketchy. Something to think about.
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Old 04-17-2003, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by campbellcj
Aren't you gonna have too much rear bias w/o the prop valve with stock calipers? That could be reeeeeealy sketchy. Something to think about.
I thought about that, but my tests last night don't really support that theory. Hard corner, slam on brakes and the car seems to lock up evenly (junk tires, I didn't care about them). If I ever get into a situation of rear lockup, I will add an adjustable bias control from a race car.

Jay
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Old 04-17-2003, 06:06 AM
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