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Germain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Michigan
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Clutch Cable--Speedo cable

I am replacing my clutch cable and upon trying to remove the clutch cable, the cable got stuck. I've pulled out about 2 feet from the firewall. Im guessing its hooked up on some rust or something like that, however I cannot push it nor pull it anymore (And yes I've used all my resources to pull it, except maybe using another car). Any ideas on how to free it up???

Next on the list speedo cable. I've removed the old one by cutting it in the center (under the armrest) and pulling out both ends. The cable I got from PP won't fit or I cannot see how to route it through the fire wall. Anyone replace one of these? Any ideas?

Thank you in advance for the help, things are comming along well for me I think...
Old 10-10-1999, 03:22 PM
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All I can say is I've had the same problem. Sometimes the cables slip right out, other times they jam in there good. See if you can force the cable back in the tube some then twist it as you pull it out. Take your time, if all else fails (i.e. the cable is already jamed in there so it won't move) try taking the shifter out and see if you can reach the end of the cable and see what it's stuck on. When removing the shifter be careful to mark how the shifter slides onto the shifter rod. It must go back on exactly how it came off, or it will nick gears.

Before pulling out the shifter, try a long peice of steel rod, about .125" dia. (1/8") might fit. Either buy it at a hardgoods store or a hobby shop may have one for launching model rockets. Take the rod and try to push the cable back into the car.

The speedo goes through a large hole that is then covered with a grommet on the cable. The grommet is probably still over the hole because of the way you removed the cable. Only thing to watch out for when running the speedo cable is to NOT make any sharp bends.

[This message has been edited by JP Noonan (edited 10-10-1999).]
Old 10-10-1999, 05:55 PM
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Thank you, Ill try it tomarrow.

I see where the speedo cable must go, my problem is that the cable I have does not seem to fit through easily... Perhaps I am missing something here. Is there anyway to get a good view of whats going on in there??? At the current moment I have the arm rest removed and there was a small plate in the rear of the car held in place with a phillips. I can see down in there a little. I don't see how to remove anything else without cutting metal Anyway thanks for the support
Old 10-10-1999, 06:35 PM
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This pic shows replacement fuel lines (the two with brass colored ends) and the wire cable at the bottom (if memory serves) is the clutch cable. The speedo cable hole is the big one that is partially cut off in the picture.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_gas_lines/914_gas_lines_pic1_big.jpg

This next one is of the same are from another angle, again the clutch cable's at the bottom, the fuel lines have unions on them now, at the top you can see the accel cable, and in the middle,above the left fuel line, is the large grommet and speedo cable. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_gas_lines/914_gas_lines_pic4_big.jpg

Thank Pelican for the pics, it's part of their fuel line replacement tech article.
Old 10-10-1999, 07:54 PM
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Usually what is happening with the clutch cable is the stud on the end is catching on the opening of the guide tube. Gently pushing back and forth with a little twisting motion usually gets it free. One hangup can also be if you haven't taken the stop nut off, it CAN'T go through.

Rather than removing the shifter, you can also remove the heater lever assembly to get access to the ends of the guide tubes. Much easier than messing with your shifter.

Or you can do it the way I did.... just cut your floor pan off and replace the lines before you weld the new one on

Ascaris

Old 10-11-1999, 01:50 PM
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Well, Speedo cable is in and hooked up, but does it work, that is the question

Now the problem child, the clutch cable. I removed the nuts, and everything else from the cable. I cannot move it forward or backward. I've been spraying some rust eating stuff in there and nothing. So... What would happen if I cut the tube out from the fire wall? Is it free or are there weld spots in the "tunnel of evil"? Argh! Perhaps breaking out the skil-saw and taking the top of the tunnel off is the answer. Boy I'd hate to do that. Thanks for the help guys.
Old 10-11-1999, 03:20 PM
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Bad news. There are welds (actually braze) spots further up that keep the tube suspended in the tunnel.

By taking the front access plate off and using a mirror and also taking the heater lever assembly out, you should be able to see down in there to tell what is going on.

Be prepared, what you see may lead to major rust repairs. If it actually is rust preventing the cable from moving, I'd bite the bullet and replace the tube. You DONT want your clutch cable binding up when you are driving along since it will probably freeze "in gear" right behind a Rolls at the stoplight.

Old 10-12-1999, 07:49 AM
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Another thought. Not absolutely sure, but if you are forced to remove the clutch tube, you might be able to reach the forward braze points through the heater and shifter assembly holes in the center tunnel. If so, you would avoid having to cut a hole in your floor pan. If you have to start cutting holes, go with the floor pan since you have the best access to the braze points from the bottom.

I think it is brazed to the two heater cable tubes up front at a guide bracket hanging from the top of the tunnel. If you could cut it free without damaging the other tubes, you could slip a new one in and clamp it in place.

I have a (slightly fuzzy) polaroid of the center tunnel from beneath (sans floorpan) showing all these lines. If you get into this situation, let me know and I'll scan it and email it to you.

I replaced both heater and clutch tubes when I did mine, but had the benefit of no floorpan or firewall in the way at the time
Old 10-12-1999, 10:44 AM
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Is it just me, or did Porsche design this tunnel thing just to be a burden? why weld the tunnel in? Why not bolt it?

Anyway, I looked at the cable/tube situation and see nothing wrong. You guys think cutting from the bottom is better then the top of the tunnel?

Now I'll go off on a tangent
I could drive my car today if the clutch worked... So lets pretend I drilled a hole in the fire wall and temp run my clutch cable in place until Friday. What kinda dmg would I do to the car? Any ideas? How about running a new tube down the tunnel, in a slightly differant location? Or maybe even just driving without cable in place (Kinda rocky starts and stops Id guess, not to mention the new trans gets destroied)? Or I coold just shoot the cable with a gun... Anyone know how to exercist a clutch cable?

As you can prob tell, really don't want to cut the floor pan... Anyone, any ideas?

Thanks all
Old 10-13-1999, 08:28 AM
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Running a cable like that won't really hurt much, except I doubt you will be able to get enough leverage to disengage the clutch.

It would be much simplar to use what you have. The only advantages to cutting from under the car are that is is easier to conceal the repair, and there is less chance of cutting into the clutch or accel tube. But, I think there is MORE chance of cutting into the plastic fuel lines from under the car.

Have you tried to use a long 1/8" metal rod to pound the cable back into the car? Then try to remove it again by twisting, or just cut it, and put the new one in. Thing is, it is nice to have an extra clutch cable in the car because they break if they are out of adjustment.
Old 10-13-1999, 08:26 PM
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The tube was removed from my car several years ago( I didn't expect to keep it 28yrs)and have had nothing but clutch cable problems since. I plan on getting it replaced if I can find another one. I saw a car with the tunnel cut open from the top and a cover screwed on to cover it. Looked like a pretty good idea. If you can save the tube I would do so.
Old 10-14-1999, 07:27 AM
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If you are trying to run another tube you need to watch for alignment and putting it in the way of the shift rod. Might get a bit tricky, but I suppose it would work. The clutch tube is a straight tube, unlike the heater controls which have compound bends in them.

The reason I recommended cutting up from the bottom is the way everyting is situated inside the center tunnel. You will have a devil of a time getting to the braze points from the top.

In the middle of the tunnel, there is a doughnut shaped bracked hanging down from the top of the tunnel. The shift rod goes through the center of the doughnut. On the bottom of the doughnut is a notch where the clutch tube and both heater control tubes cross and are brazed in place. If I remember right the clutch tube sits in the notch and the heater tubes are brazed to the bottom of the clutch tube.

From the bottom you have good access and can carefully hit this spot with a torch and "unbraze" the tubes to seperate them. I don't know how you could reach it from the top. Be sure to pull your heater control cables out before you do this or you'll need a new set.

If you can locate this "doughnut" and cut a 6" hole in the floorpan just below it you can probably do all the repairs from there. You may need to have your engine out also to pull the tube out the back.

To make sure you don't hit your plastic fuel lines, fish down from the top access plates with a wire and pull them up to the top of the tunnel before cutting (and when you go to weld the patch back in place too!)

Old 10-14-1999, 09:34 AM
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Well, incase your wondering, I got the cable in. I was able to cut the cable just short of the opening, and then by using the metal rod trick (THANKS!!!) beat on the cable until I got it on the other end. Heres what was wrong with the cable. Some plastic covering over the cable that runs in the tunnel had bunched up, and it refused to slide nicely along the tunnel. So moral of this story, if all else fails, never underestimate the usefullness of a good hammer

BTW, everything is now hooked up (I think) and ready to drive. However can't get the car started. For more info on the starting problem soo the thread "fuel pump". Thank you all so very much for your help.
Old 10-16-1999, 02:33 PM
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