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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 50
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Trunk lid

I have dual webbers (ugh) on my 73 914 and PO had to remove the opening balance springs because it interfered with the carb setup. Has anyone had experience with using hydraulic shocks for keeping the trunk open and if so can you offer some advice on where and how to install them. It's a pain in the 240Z to hold the trunk open and store the roof at the same time! Any thoughts out there?

HUTCH
Old 10-19-1999, 01:04 PM
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Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Michigan
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When I work on the engine on my car, I remove the "hood". There are two 10mm bolts on the underside of the hinges, and thats all there is to it.
I noticed you said you had 2 Weber carbs (Ugh)... what size Webers? I have a 72 2.0L with a stock F.I. that is functioning correctly, complete, and in good shape. The only thing wrong with it is the wireing harness is alittle brittle but then again what do you expect for a 25 year old wire?
Anyway, if you interested, I am looking into getting some Webers for my non-stock engine because the stock F.I. is no longer providing me with what I need. I would keep the F.I., but there isn't much of a chance of me understanding it enough to adjust it.
Old 10-20-1999, 05:46 AM
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Sorry, I should have been more clearer. I was talking about the rear luggage compartment that stores the Targa top and not the engine cover. I can't reassemble the trunk spring rods because of the Carb setup. I was looking for a hydraulic assist to keep the luggage trunk open. Any thoughts?

HUTCH
Old 10-20-1999, 06:03 AM
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Santa Clara
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Tom at Pelican Parts mentioned they will have their trunk kit out very soon.
I already installed one on my car. The upsides are no more metal rods for tension. The downsides are if you install the kit like most people you need to drill downward into the rain channel to mount the braket. Most people place plastic washers under the screws. You can see the screws in the channel when the lid is closed. I welded mine in to avoid that.
The other major downside is that the rear trunk lid no longer fits as well as with the stock setup do to different tension on the lid. It will bend slightly in the middle and go up a mm or two. Ok, so thats not alot and it will mate the same if you press down on the lid after you close it.
-Rich

[This message has been edited by Rich Hilgersom (edited 10-20-1999).]
Old 10-20-1999, 07:54 AM
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Thanks Rich. I'll call Tom at PP to see when it might be available. Was yours a kit or did you design it yourself?

HUTCH
Old 10-20-1999, 08:40 AM
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My setup was from a kit. I also forgot to mention the most frightening thing...
You need to cut your trunk to get this done.
Since the strut needs to go from the trunk hinge to the mounting on the drip edge it needs to have some clearance cut out of the top lip where the back rubber touches the sides. This is about a 3/4" notch. I also had some problem with the top mount hitting the curved lip area by the rear suspension mount. I had to ding it with a hammer to make it clear. I think I am going to make a fingered rubber piece to place in the cutout area so the strut may pass though it and limit some dirt from getting in the trunk from the engine compartment.

-Rich
Old 10-20-1999, 09:01 AM
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Just a thought, why use hydrolic shocks? Could you do the same type of set up thats on a 67 Mustang? The have (If I remember correctly) large springs attached to the hinge. These springs try to force the hinges open at all times. I haven't looked at my car to see, but this idea just came to me.
Old 10-20-1999, 09:34 AM
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