Ready to have some fun II
 

I thought I would start a new one so we wouldn't have to go through all those entries.
I've mounted everything I need to, I believe.
After studying the schematics in my Haynes book, here is what I did and what happens:
I'm carrying switched and fused +12 v to pins 12,14, and 8 on the relay board.
The fuel pump + is on pin 13, Also with a switch and a fuse.
Pin 10 is grounded
I have a momentary pushbutton sending +12 v to pin 1

The push button causes the motor to crank
I have power to the coil and I do get a spark
The fuel pump does not run, but one of the relays does pull in on the relay board, not sure which one.

Sorry no pictures. Let me clean up the wiring and the shop, otherwise you'll all know I AM a hacking mechanic.

Any Ideas?

Karl

All right, I can answer my own question now:

On the relay board, here's the I/O for the harness to the chassis

pin 1- starter, momentary +12 v, what happens when you turn the key to start (in)
pin 2- Alternator indicator light (out)
pin 5- oil pressure light (out)
pin 7- tachometer pulse (out)
pin 8- ignition, +12v, gets there when you turn the ignition on (in)
pin 12- battery +12v, on all the time (in)
pin 13- fuel pump, +12v, turned on by FI brain (out)
pin14- battery +12v, on all the time (in)

Hooked up like this, all sytems are GO

I've got a very leaky intake valve on #2. I suppose the head must come off.

Karl P

Congrats, Karl! Sorry to hear about the valve, though. :(

--DD

Ahhh well. I think I'll just take the one head off and fix just the one valve;)

Oh,yeah-
pin 10- relay board ground (In or Out, depending on your point of view)
And the grounds from the ECU must be attached to ground or it won't work.

Are there any alternatives to the stock air cleaner box?

I hate to put that big bulky thing on there. It also has a hole rusted through I'll have to fix

Thanks to everyone for their help. I'll put some pictures up in a couple of days. Wish I didn't have an obsesson for painting everything red. It does look cool though

A K&N cone filter, with a bunch of PVC pipe and fittings, dan work pretty well. Some sheet aluminum to make a "rain hat" for it, and there you go.

I'm sure that someone on Evil-Bay will be glad to sell you the same thing (but metal pipe instead of PVC) for only $100, and will tell you it adds 20 HP to your stock 2.0 motor...

--DD

do you think a muffler shop could bend up something that would work in place of the pvc?

Sure, no problem! But I'd make the PVC first, and tell them to match that. Much easier than trying to wave your hands to spec it out.

BTW, I've seen a 1.7 with a "generic Kragen-special Honda rice-boy cold air intake" on it. It looked like a very clean install, but I forget what the coupler between the 1.7 throttle body and the CAI was.

--DD