76 heat exchangers **Emergency**

[Neal Colingham]

I have a bad right side heat exchanger. They
do not make a replacement stainless exchanger
and Pelican does not have any used. Does anyone have a used one I could purchase. Please let me know A.S.A.P
Thanks

[oredith]

I'm getting kerry headers intalled this week (probably later than earlier), but i won't have much use for the heat exchangers after that. I don't know the exact condition they're in since i've never taken them off.. once i get them off though.. and if they're in a decent condition, you can have them.. just have to figure out shipping to WA..

are the exchangers different for a 73 and 76 2.0L?.. i think i've got a spare set from a 73 sitting around.

Jeff

(let me know if you still need them near the end of the week)

[Joe Bob]

The heat exchangers are different for the 73-74 and the 75-76 model. They only made s/s for the 70-74 models...go figure.

I have a set of 2.0 73/74 style. You will need to order a new muffler to use them. If you want them email me. $200ish or trade.

[JP Noonan]

The 70-74 1.7L and 1.8L have a similar but different type than the 73-74 2.0L.

The 75-76 1.8L and 2.0L are completely different than the rest.

All the 70-74 types are basically one peice (well, a bunch of peices welded together)

The 75-76 are actually two piece. A "manifold" type of thing that point toward the front of the car, then the heat exchangers that redirect it back toward the rear. Good news is that is you just need the small manifold piece that comes right off the head, then one from a 76(maybe 77) to 80 bus should work. The 80-83 bus heads have square exhaust ports so they won't work. If you need the HE part (most likely) then you need to find one from a 75-76 1.8L or 2.0L.

The best thing to do (if you don't have to pass emissions) is to use the 73-74 2.0L exhaust and muffler. this exhaust (and removing the AIR pump) should give you 7-10 h.p. (the 73-74 had 95 bhp, the 75-76 only had a rated 88bhp)

When replacing HE's make sure to replace the copper gaskets. If the original ones are in there they may be hard to see, but dig them out, clean the area, and put in new ones. If the gasket leaks: first the gasket inself melts, making the leak worse. Then, the heat from the combustion melts the head and the heat exchanger (ask me how I know).

If any of the studs strip out make sure to repair the threads and put in a new stud. Be careful to drill and tap the hole straight or the stud will be crooked, then the HE's will be a bear to install (again, ask me how I know).

Iknow, I know, more info than you needed to know. ;-)

[Germain]

I have a question for oredith, or anyone who has headers on their Porsche. How in the world do you defrost the windows? I am struggleing with this right now. I'm sure some of you are planning on never driving in the rain, but I would like to be able to go out in any weather (short of Winter season here in MI, because the salt does bad things) Any input?

[Joe Bob]

That's the problem with headers. You lose heat and defrost capability. It's not if they worked all that well to begin with...

The blower and the ducting is still there but w/o the heat exchangers the air will be cabin temp. There are some electric heaters available, but they pull a LOT of amps. Most stock 914 alternators are not up to the current draw.

If you have a six conversion, the later model 911 alternators can handle it. My sixer, has headers. For $1,000 I could get heat exchangers. For that amount of money, I will put on a jacket.....another reason to live in California...8^)

[oredith]

I'm with Mike, here in california.. (at least where i am.. SB is pretty damn cold in the morning) we don't need heat.. and i've got a jacket..

as far as defrosting/fogging.. as per a suggestion from ?shawn? from don+glenn's get-together.. he said he put on some anti fog stuff on the inside of the winshield.. and its worked wonderfully (for him)

besides.. who has time to worry about heat and stuff when you're having fun in the 914?..

Jeff

[ws91420]

I have a 76 914 that the PO put ss exchangers on. The main difference was the outlet on the exchangers. Just use a muffler for a 73 or 74 2L. They were changed in 75 so that California cars could have put cat converters on them. As long as it is not an orignal Calif. car you should be OK.

[Germain]

Ok, where can I get info on electric heaters (I live in Michigan, and although I don't plan on driving in the snow, it gets mighty cold around here) I need some info because as of now I have no heat, and my old heat sysyem is either rusted through, or doesn't work anymore. Im not going to spend $1000 for heat, buy I would spend $500 for an electric heater and a better alt. Any ideas?

[Dave Thompson]

Regarding electric heater; I drove my 914 out to Minnesota from California last January in 5 degree temps and darn near froze to death as my heater cable on the drivers side was slack, and my heater blower was the idiotic onse-side-only duct setup! I stopped on my way home at Cabela's outdoor sports store and bought an eletric heater for $100, complete with wiring kit. I sat on thefloor in the stores heated foyer and prewired the kit, then went outside in subzero and installed it by direct connect to teh battery posts, stuck the unit inside and used it as a defroster. It was only partly effective since my main heat source was not heating at all, but it did suffice to get us the last 2 hours to home. The upside is that once I corrected the cable and blower stuff, I managed to get enough heat out of the system that the electric unit works very well as a supplemental heater. I have it mounted down below the dash on the passenger side, with quick connects on the wiring so I pull it during the warm half of the year. The downside is I doubt it would provide adequate heat by itself for full on winter use, but it sound like you don't plan deep winter driving anyway, so it might be what you need.
Cabela's is probably not the only place to get the unit, but they are a big national mail order house, so you should be able to reach them and order the unit easily. The actual unit itself is roughly the same as those small black box heaters you see by the pallet load at Menards, but with a careful install and wiring, you can put it in and not really lose any space. Good luck, and let me know if you need any more detailed install tips than this.

[72_914]

About the alt-heat issue- One time I saw a page where a guy had a heat gun (hair dryer looking thing) mounted behind the gas tank right above where the release for the front trunk is. It was hooked up to the stock hose running into the blower box. I have used these things before and they get pretty hot! Probaly not enough to heat the cabin, but plenty to defrost the windshield. You can probaly find one at Mc Master Carr or Grainger .

[This message has been edited by 72_914 (edited 10-25-1999).]

[This message has been edited by 72_914 (edited 10-25-1999).]

[Germain]

I've used heat guns in the past to do shink wraping and such. First I dont think they can displace enough heat to do much good. Second, the top of the gun get incredibaly hot and would melt just about anything I can think of. Third and most importantly the amount of amp draw would kill... I dont think that this would be a viable solution, I definatly would not consider this a "safe" solution. Im posting this as a warning, I would find anything that has the ability to generate up to 1000 degrees of heat to be dangerous. Ok, enough said

Anyone know off hand how many amps the stock alternator can handle, while charging at the same time?

[Tim Polzin]

Considering all that is involved in getting electric heat, why not look at modifying a bug gas heater? You might even be able to plumb it into the stock heater ducts.

[Germain]

Bug gas heater???

Where might I gather some info on this? Internet site?

[Tim Polzin]

I was thinking of the gas heater VW used as an extra heater in their air-cooled cars and vans. 911's too. Sort of made for the purpose, but I don't think they were ever a dealer option on the 914.

[72_914]

This is from Mcmaster Carr -


Part Number 17075K71:


Low-Voltage DC Mini Fan-Forced Heater 12 VDC, 300 Watts, 1024 BTU/Hr, 102 Cfm 7"h x 6"w x 5"d

$ 99.15 Each


And sure a heat gun would draw alot of power and be dangerous, but not enough heat? I don't know what type of heat gun you have but mine has a heat range of 200 deg f to 300 deg f, air volume of 23cfm and air velocity of 3000fpm (120vac, 60hz).

[Germain]

Thanks for the McMaster number. The heat gun I have (for work) is an industrial specialized one that I guess. I creates upto 1000 degrees farenhieit, and I doubt it moves 23cfm, I could be wrong. I was more concerned about the danger of hooking that kinda concentrated heat into a car, and near the gas tank. This McMaster heater looks safer Thanks for looking it up, I never though of checking what they have (Always my first mistake, I swear they carry everything)

[roadtrp204]

Try checking the VW magazines, like VW trends or Hot VWs. Usually about this time of year they tend to have lots of advertisements about alternative heat sources. Since the generator in a bug puts out about 30 amps and the alternator in a 914 puts out about 60, the products for bugs should work. One that I thought would work the best was an oil cooler with a blower fan on the back. Hope this helps.
Chris

[Germain]

The 914 is a 60 AMP alt? If so what is the overhead, how any amps is my stock 914 gonna use of that 60?

[Jim Osborn]

I went down to Orchard Supply Hardware and purchased a peice of pvc the split into two directions that just slipped over the output of the blower motor. I used aluminum tape to seal it to the motor. This worked really well. There is another article on Pelican about adding turbo fans to the system. The PVC was $4.00 apposed to $40 for the OEM piece that splits the air. Just some more info.

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