No spark?
 

I just had the engine out, ('74 2.0) and changed all the valve springs do to one breaking. Put it all back together and now no spark at the plugs or the points. Coil has 12v to both sides with ign. on. Is this correct? Points and condenser are new. Continuity test shows all grounds good (that I can think of). Point gap set at .016.
From looking up other "no spark" posts, I believe I checked everything that was mentioned.
Not sure what to check next. Bad coil? Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.

I honestly don't remember if the (-) terminal also shows 12V to ground.

First step is to take another look at everything you may have touched since the last time the car ran. It's not hard for plugging something in to slip your mind--or at least, not for me! Things like plugging the points in correctly, or forgetting to hook up the ground strap that's on the points plate to the distributor body. Or for you to bump something and knock it loose.

While you're checking, make sure that the distributor rotor and points cam are actually rotating. If you removed the distributor to change the points (access is a ton better if you do!!) you might not have the distributor seated all the way down in the drive shaft. That would keep the points from working at all, and is a relatively common thing.

If you don't see any issues when you re-check, then start testing methodically. Ideally you want to test only one thing at a time, or at least you want to be able to check some subset of the whole ignition system.

I'd set up a spare spark plug on a plug wire connected directly to the coil center terminal. Tape it with the outer electrode (or the threaded part) on a good ground. Unplug the wires from the coil (-) terminal, then turn the ignition on. Use a length of wire with bare ends to ground and then break the ground on the (-) terminal. On one of those (breaking the ground I think?) you should get a fat white happy spark on the spark plug. If you don't, then either the plug is bad or the wire is bad or the coil is bad.

Hook up only the points wire to the (-) terminal, then use a little screwdriver to open and close the points. (You'll have to rotate the engine to where the points are closed so you can open them.) Again, either opening or closing those points should produce a fat white spark. This checks the points, condenser, the points plate, the distributor ground braid, and other stuff in that path.

If you have spark with that test, then you're looking at the center coil wire, the distributor cap, the rotor, the plug wires, and the plugs as possible culprits. It is unlikely that all four plug wires or all four plugs will be bad at the same time, so concentrate more on the cap and rotor and coil wire in that case.

Good luck!

--DD

I would suggest removing the distributor cap, use a nice bright light and have someone crank the engine and watch the shaft of the distributor turn and read voltage at the NEG terminal of the coil. It should go 0 to 12 volts to 0 as engine is cranked. Do the points open/close as they should and voltage should move as I noted.
John Rogers

Here's the update: I tried opening and closing the points with ignition on. Only the green wire connected to "-". No spark. Rotor, cap, points, wires, plugs are all very new. I did have trouble with the dizzy not seating down into the slots but did resolve that and the rotor is spinning. I was just about to do what John suggested. Voltmeter to the negative side of the coil. Wife cranks engine and the needle is wiggling around but cranks to fast to tell. But, it appeared, voltage was changing. So, again for the 4th or 5th time, I watch the points while cranking and now has spark. I didn't change anything, just reconnected the coil wires like they were.
So, now the engine tries to start. Stumbles a bit but won't start. Maybe timing or not picking up fuel. (I forgot one fuel line and gas poured out). So, I'll get more gas and I should be able to get it going now.
Thanks Dave and John for the responses. Things I didn't think about. And something got spark back. Bob

Dave, BTW - "I honestly don't remember if the (-) terminal also shows 12V to ground.". It just so happened that I got a call from a friend that had a 930 in a shop and the mechanic said, "the coil should only have 12v to one side". So, coil may be bad.