Clutch Install Questions.
 

Yesterday I got the flywheel turned and my clutch parts came in. I reinstalled the tranny on the studs holding it to the engine. I checked the play on the clutch fork. It probably has an inch + of travel. And only half an inch of travel when its starts putting pressure on the pressure play before hitting the back of the tranny

My questions are.
Would turning the flywheel too much cause this?
How do I get that ball out where the fork pivots on. The nut is sunk below the lip and i cant get a wrench or socket on it.
If I do manage to get that out, how much can I shim it? It seems that putting too much on would cause the throwout bearing to push too far forward off the input shaft.

Before the new clutch and pressure plate it seemed to synch of perfect.

Stumped....

This is normal.

I find lots of trannies where the pivot has washers underneath to compensate for the machine work on the flywheel.

How do you get the pivot off? I use a 14 mm deep socket. I used a grinder to shave off enough material to allow the socket to enter the hole. If you don't wish to do this, use a visegrip, but wrap the pivot in some leather, so you don't score the ball.

I've seen as many as 2 washers used. Unfortunately, this is trial and error....

James

I'll give it a try. The difference is so much different then it was when I took it off which had me concerned.

Thanks for the info.

I second what Red-Beard said.

Also, replace the little Y piece that holds the shift fork in place.

And, make sure the TO bearing to shift fork plastic pieces are in place

There is a wedge piece w/two ears that is slips over the end of the clutch cable and mates to the shift fork. This piece should be made from metal and not plastic

It took forever to get the ball out, but an hr of grinding down a 14mm deep well finally got it out. I placed a washer underneath and checked the operation of TO assembly. tommorrow I will pop the tranny back in and see how much different it is.


Here is a pic. I only really drover her back from the house of the person I bought it from with a severely slipping clutch. Next project is replacing the shifter bushing in back and possibly a rennshift.

http://www.mypad.org/albums/album17/IMG_0001.sized.jpg

Beautiful looking car. I'm not usually a fan of rivieras, but they work on a nice red car, like yours.

James

Purty........

I really want 5 spoke Fuchs, but am not ready for the whole conversion. I cant imagine with a 1.7L adaptors would be too bad. Once I upgrage the suspenstion and brakes I will look into a true conversion. What does a decent set run minus rubber?

6x15's can be had easily for around $400.

James

Howz your transaxle input shaft seal? i've seen plenty of clutches slip due to seal leaks, only a couple that were actually wore out......

Tranny was dry. The rear main was leaking a bit, but the clutch disc was gone. "almost" starting to score the flywheel.

Very nice looking car.

Thanks.


Tonight I finished her. the shim worked out well, but there is still a bit more play then I would like. But everything is fine. anymore shim and the TO bearing would have to travel too far.

It's so fun to drive. Not a bad way to spend $3500

P,

This reply may be too late, but did you also check the condition of the plastic pivot bushing in the throw out arm? This is the plastic cup-shaped bushing that presses into the arm that the ball fits into and the arm pivots on. On my car this had worn completely through to the metal and cracked in the process. This has some thickness and would contribute to the shimming problem if worn.

Mike

Thanks for the heads up. I ordered the PP clutch kit wich came with that so Im safe there.