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cary's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Sherwood, Oregon
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Rear Brake Rebuild ??

This weekends project is too freshen up the barkes on my $1k driver.

I have both Haynes and the Factory manuals.

The fronts look straight forward. Standard set-up.
The rears. What am I getting my self in for ?
Haynes and the Factory manual, both say don't rebuild.

I see theres a tech article. Should that pretty much cover it ?
From what I see. The E-Brake gadget is the issue ??
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Cary
77 Carrera RS w/3.2 #59
73 914S 2.0 AG
73 914 1.7 Driver ( daily driver, under complete rustoration )
74 914 2.0, 71 914 Tub, 74 914 2.0 Tub + 73 914 donor
Old 09-12-2003, 01:38 PM
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Once again, Brad Roberts. He hung himself (IMO) by saying he do dem for $150 a side.

ninefourteenclubdotcom

M
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Old 09-12-2003, 02:43 PM
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Just did mine about two weeks ago. It was not difficult, only complication to work around was a caliper was missing an adjustment screw. One thing I did not do - remove the e-brake lever. Mine worked smoothly so I just made sure the inside was clean and worked some brake lube inside. The tech article is all you need. Just make sure you crank the pistons in all the way if installing new pads, and leave the adjustment screw plug out when you install the calipers so you can proceed to adjust the venting clearance. Also mine had some surface rust around the outer edges of the bores. I found a Dremel tool with one of those small wire brush wheels worked great to clean out the seal grooves, and followed up with a light polish with some 1500 wet/dry sandpaper. Also, clean the parts well, and blow them out with compressed air to make sure no particles of crap are left in there. Finally I would invest in some snap ring pliers to remove the ring. That made it a snap (pardon the pun), I don't think I'd fool around with screwdrivers and paperclips.
Old 09-12-2003, 04:07 PM
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I have a couple different types of snap ring pliers. Should be able to spread them and pull it off without it flying across the shop. LOL.

I'm pretty sure the kit has the extra O-ring. It looks to be about 10mm wide. It's a square cut seal. Opposed to a regular round O-ring.
Sound right ???
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Cary
77 Carrera RS w/3.2 #59
73 914S 2.0 AG
73 914 1.7 Driver ( daily driver, under complete rustoration )
74 914 2.0, 71 914 Tub, 74 914 2.0 Tub + 73 914 donor
Old 09-12-2003, 04:23 PM
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I did mine, so far so good. German parts and restoration had rebuild kits with all the o-rings except those between the caliper halves. Get some of that fancy brake grease to lube the e-brake mech. if you take it off and 25mm plugs from UAP/NAPA to replace the one on the caliper.
Herb Meeder wrote a really good tech. article on the subject, used to be on this site.
Good luck.
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'73 914, 2056 GT/SC done!
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Old 09-12-2003, 06:32 PM
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Dave, the tech article is still here. But no pictures, so I'm lost. LOL.
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Cary
77 Carrera RS w/3.2 #59
73 914S 2.0 AG
73 914 1.7 Driver ( daily driver, under complete rustoration )
74 914 2.0, 71 914 Tub, 74 914 2.0 Tub + 73 914 donor
Old 09-12-2003, 07:02 PM
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My kit had two round O-rings, one for each piston adjuster and they are different sizes. The PP kit also had the two fluid seals that go between the caliper halves. These were more of a square cross-section O-ring. I also used the new boot retaining rings. They are too long (the ends meet) so I had to grind off a little on one end. They should have a small gap on the ends after installation. One more hint - crank the pistons all the way in before you install the dust boots, it makes it easier to put on the retaining rings.
Old 09-12-2003, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by cary
Dave, the tech article is still here. But no pictures, so I'm lost. LOL.
I did mine a couple of months ago. I took some pics....not the greatest photographer in the world, mind you. I'll send them to you if you want. The article is pretty accurate. It's one of those jobs thats a hassle the first time then like pie each time after that.

The snap ring pliers are a big help to the job. I didn't have that so I "made" a reasonable likeness out of a dime store pair of needle nose. Sharpened the ends really pointy with a file and then bent the points together just a little bit (soft metal )

--Case...
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Old 09-12-2003, 10:17 PM
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I didn't have a digital camera when I wrote the article (jeez, 2 years ago or so.) I wish I had been able to take some photos, but most people who have contacted me about the article after making their own attempts have told me it was pretty easy to follow and were successful.

GPR's kits were complete as of the last time I did a rebuild, so I'm not sure why the most recent one didn't have the caliper half seals (yes, squared off cross section is a good way to describe them.)

Last I heard, our good friends here at Pelican had complete kits (the kits originally did not come with the 2 piston adjuster seals or the caliper half seals. They have been added, aftermarket.)

Yes, snap ring pliers are the way to go, though they are still a bear to use in the confines of the cylinders.

Good Luck, and if you get in a jam, email me through the board here. The email address at the end of the tech article is no longer valid.
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'72 Tangerine 'Teen
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Old 09-13-2003, 12:45 AM
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Hope these are helpful.

Here are all the parts:


Adjusting screw, sombreo, snap ring (little fuzzy, sorry):


Exploded view (p-brake half):


Piston seal in groove:


My very helpful tool:


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Old 09-13-2003, 12:11 PM
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Thanks for the help.

Didn't quite get there today. Dad stuff. VB game. Then front half shaft on the soccer moblie. ( AWD Aerostar ).

Started about 5pm. I have them all off. Rotors are ready for the trip to NAPA in the am.
But I have one rusted in piston on one of the front calipers. She be soaking with a little PB Blaster for the night.
We'll see what I wake up to. Might have to take the one off the project car if she doesn't come loose.
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Cary
77 Carrera RS w/3.2 #59
73 914S 2.0 AG
73 914 1.7 Driver ( daily driver, under complete rustoration )
74 914 2.0, 71 914 Tub, 74 914 2.0 Tub + 73 914 donor
Old 09-13-2003, 07:45 PM
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Well, the fronts are done. It took a little twist with the pliers to break the rust bond. It was rusted on the outer lip. Inside was fine. I cleaned up the outer lip with the Dremel.

Now the rears, that's a different story. The right rear has one frozen piston. The one on the e-brake side is frozen. The adjuster turns, but the piston doesn't move.

Where do I go from here ?

Looking at the one thats out. You can't pull it or blow it out. Its soaking with PB Plaster right now.
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Cary
77 Carrera RS w/3.2 #59
73 914S 2.0 AG
73 914 1.7 Driver ( daily driver, under complete rustoration )
74 914 2.0, 71 914 Tub, 74 914 2.0 Tub + 73 914 donor
Old 09-14-2003, 02:02 PM
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Cary,

Sometimes the piston on the e-brake side will not catch the teeth on the adjuster. Try this: use a clamp to squeeze the piston as far back into the cylinder as it will go (if you're suffering this problem, it should only go back in about 1/16 of an inch.) Now the teeth on the worm screw adjuster should be flush with the bottom of the cylinder. If things are right, that cylindrical adjuster gear will now be able to catch the teeth on the worm screw that drives into the back of the piston. Go look at the one you have apart to see what I mean.

If this works, drive the piston all the way out. Careful you don't crank it the wrong direction as this will cause the worm screw to draw up into the piston putting you back at square one.

Good luck.
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'72 Tangerine 'Teen
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Last edited by HMeeder; 09-14-2003 at 05:44 PM..
Old 09-14-2003, 05:41 PM
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Herb, I did the C-clamp technique. Didn't seem to help. But I didn't really screw it down too tight. Maybe I'll try it again.

How hard should I have to screw to C-clamp down ?

But I should pre-face this first. The e-brake on that side wasn't working at all. 0, zilch, nota.
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Cary
77 Carrera RS w/3.2 #59
73 914S 2.0 AG
73 914 1.7 Driver ( daily driver, under complete rustoration )
74 914 2.0, 71 914 Tub, 74 914 2.0 Tub + 73 914 donor
Old 09-14-2003, 07:59 PM
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I think I screwed it backwards. I went CCW to push it out. Rereading some other posts, sounds like it should have have CW. It seems to get real tight when I go CW. My allen wrench is getting a little rounded.

I'll chop her down in the AM and try it again.
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Cary
77 Carrera RS w/3.2 #59
73 914S 2.0 AG
73 914 1.7 Driver ( daily driver, under complete rustoration )
74 914 2.0, 71 914 Tub, 74 914 2.0 Tub + 73 914 donor
Old 09-14-2003, 09:14 PM
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Well, I gave it a try this am. Screwing it CW it started to drive itself out.
But it only went 1/2 way then stopped. Doesn't go forwards or backwards. Did the C-clamp deal again. Seems like I heard it pop. But it could have been the c-clamp slipping. It seemed like I saw if move just a bit ( maybe wishful thinking ). Then nothing.
Did it over and over a few times. Nothing.

Won't go in or out. So I'm soaking it with PB Blaster again.
Using a scale, looks like the inside end of the piston is right at the seal. If that helps.
The adjuster seems to get real tight for a bit, then it turns easy.

What next ??
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Cary
77 Carrera RS w/3.2 #59
73 914S 2.0 AG
73 914 1.7 Driver ( daily driver, under complete rustoration )
74 914 2.0, 71 914 Tub, 74 914 2.0 Tub + 73 914 donor
Old 09-15-2003, 07:24 AM
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Cary, if you can get somebody to turn the adjuster screw while you carefully leverage the piston out of the bore with a couple of screwdrivers, then it should some out. You just trying to give the piston screw a little help to push it out, once it gets off the end of the threads it should come out. I'd be careful, don't try to force it back in with a clamp. If it's coming out then just keep working it in that direction.
Old 09-15-2003, 08:37 AM
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Guy, I'll give that a try.
I've tried to squish it a couple times with the C-clamp. I saw that it wasn't doing much. I haven't put a pipe on the c-clamp, yet. LOL.


What is Plan B ? Can it be drilled out and replace the adjuster ?
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Cary
77 Carrera RS w/3.2 #59
73 914S 2.0 AG
73 914 1.7 Driver ( daily driver, under complete rustoration )
74 914 2.0, 71 914 Tub, 74 914 2.0 Tub + 73 914 donor
Old 09-15-2003, 09:54 AM
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Cary

Drill out the piston? Sounds pretty radical. You got the piston to move some, right? Does the adjuster move it in and out at all? How far out is the piston right now? The adjuster will not push it all the way out - it has a range to take it only so far. After that you either need to use mechanical force to remove it, or compressed air. I don't like using air as it can make such a mess when it comes out unless you take precautions to prevent it from going completely out. Plus I split the calipers so makes that more difficult. Clamp the rear half in a bench vice, then use two large screwdrivers (hook them into the groove on the piston) and carefully leverage it out of the bore. I can't believe you had so much water in the cylinder to really rust it in tight but I guess anything's possible.
Old 09-15-2003, 10:20 AM
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How can you tell if the adjuster moves in & out ? To me it just turns. Sometimes fairly easy. Sometimes fairly tight.

From what I can measure on the one thats out. It's still in the threads. I don't think it will leverage out. I need to keep driving it out with the adjuster and the screwdrivers as pry bars. There's still 3/8's of an inch inside the caliper.

My drill out thought was from the other side. Drill out the adjuster. To break it off.
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Cary
77 Carrera RS w/3.2 #59
73 914S 2.0 AG
73 914 1.7 Driver ( daily driver, under complete rustoration )
74 914 2.0, 71 914 Tub, 74 914 2.0 Tub + 73 914 donor
Old 09-15-2003, 12:19 PM
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