Talk about the stinkbug look
 

My poor car has had me pull the engine about a dozen times now. I must be getting good at it. Takes about 2 hours start to finish. Putting it back in however and making it run is another story. This is the engine I sold and has to be shipped on Tuesday. The new engine is not ready yet as they did not finish my sheetmetal. On top of that I will be changing my cam and lifters before it goes in. Seems another clip came off the lifter again.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1065399857.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1065399913.jpg

You are going to tear your engine down from fresh to change the cam and lifters?

Oh my god, you have too much time, money, and balls.

:)


M

Do you drop the engine without the car being level on four jackstands?

Paul

i use the pelican method except i use 2 floor jacks. one under each trailing arm. piece o cake.

kevin

Kevin,

Is that the method where you remove the rear wheels & lower the car with a furniture cart under the engine? Does that work well?

I used the furniture cart method a few weeks back and did the engine drop in a couple hours by myself and it was my first engine drop ever. It worked out great.

Scott, your beautiful Yella car looks way too unstable to me in that position...I hope thats not how it was raised when the engine was dropped. The steep angle of the car on those extended jack stands looks like trouble.

I just roll the rear wheels up on ramps, and pull all the injection (to reduce overall engine height).

Then insert a threaded rod about 18" long, with nuts and washers, to replace the bolts on each end of the transverse engine mount bar. Using a jack under the transaxle, and lowering the nuts on the threaded rod, it is very safe and is easily done solo onto a Furniture dolly.

Clearance to the valance (strill installed) only needs to be something like ~20 inches or so.

PS: with a set of black negative stripes your car could be the worlds only 914 Limited Edition Reverse Bumblebee :cool:

Well, I have dropped the motor about a dozen times and I always do it the same way. Just like you see it. A floor jack and a board along the bottom of the engine and trans and it drops straight down. There was one point yesterday where my arm got pinned under the cross bar but I was strong enough to lift it off. I am getting used to it now. I will put the new one in the same way just reversed. What ever works right? I always do it alone.

mark, exactly, piece-o-cake. also, i do remove the rear wheels. the whole thing is at a tail down angle when lower the car down. i used 2 pieces of 2x4 and a small piece of 1/2 plywood on the moving dolly under the front of the engine to compensate. saw a slick trick this weekend. for you f.i. folks. slide 2 old lience plates up between the shelve and engine tin. that allows the engine to come down without those pesky fuel rails getting hung up on the shelve. i have carbs, i take the carbs and linkage off as a unit. i remove the rear bumper and valence.four bolts and hand full of screws. good time to clean up the painted area behind the bumper.

kevin

Is there something blocking the right front wheel. If not that's scary. Even with just one wheel blocked it would be scary. Plus the fact that the front wheels are slighty turned. You got balls my friend. Or maybe I'm just Jonny play it safe.

Well, Brian, Actually there is nothing blocking the front wheels. I never even thought about it. I always do it like this and have never had a problem. You guys are going to make me paranoid now. With the ngine out, I can almost bench press the back of the car so I never gave it much concern. Perhaps I will block the wheels in front before I put the engine back in. Send me those screws Brian, I will need them pretty quick to put my engine back together.

No problem on the screws. In fact I'll send them out right now. Just make sure you pay me ok ;)

I have 2 factory jacks that I use to pull my motor.

You have to get a friend to do the other side, or only go a crank or two, and change sides. I find parking on a steep incline helps.


M

Brian, I paid for it a little while ago. Thanks.

Just out of couriosoty, how did you get your chrome trim to be black? It looks really good on the yellow car.

Vern

Kragen or Trak auto, one of those two has some flat black auto trim paint. However, when I go to shoot the car again, I am taking it all over to have it powder coated. It will hold up much better. This stuff works ok, but in a high traffic area such as door handles, it chips too easy with the key.

Well, I got the screws from Brian today and the sheet meatal back from the powder coaters but my new cam and lifters are not here yet. Thanks again Brian for the fast shipping. I cannot say that you are holding me up. I ordered a SCAT cam and lifters and straight cut gears from a place in Lancaster and they said they shipped them on Thursday after telling me they would ship on Wednesday. Anywhere in Cawlifornia to here should only be one day almost any way you send it. Here I am in the garage stareing at a motor that I cannot assemble. This really sucks.

What size tires do you have on that car? They look just right.

205X60X15 on Mahle's They fit perfect

Damm. I have 205x50's and your's look much beefier!