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Rust pics........

I new I had rust underneath the battery tray, but I didn't know it was this bad. With the engine out, I was able to remove the rusted battery tray and support. I found a rather large hole where the fuel pump bolts up to the metal. I plan on relocating the fuel pump to the front. Can anyone let me know how hard it is to repair this hole. The rest of the rust is at the surface and I will sand this down to the metal. I have been thinking of taking up welding anyway, so this might be my first welding project.

Thanks,
Rod


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Old 10-11-2003, 08:59 AM
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Step 1: Cut.
Step 2: Prep.
Step 3: Weld.
Step 4: Paint.

No harder than any other rust...

--DD
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Old 10-11-2003, 09:19 AM
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Nicely stated, DD. Wish it were that easy for us novices to do.

I have the same problem, though much more advanced rust in the area under the battery tray. If you're taking up welding to do this, be sure to get lots of practice on scrap metal before you try to lay welds onto your 914. Hopefully, when done, you'll feel a lot more satisfaction by doing it yourself.
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Old 10-11-2003, 10:33 AM
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Get a new engine shelf!
Get a spot weld cutter and cut out the shelf.
Clean everything, sanding and grinding to bare metal.
Fit new shelf, drill small 1/4" holes to weld thru so it looks like spot welds when done.
Rent, borrow or buy a MIG w/gas wire feed and weld it in.
Geoff
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Old 10-11-2003, 11:15 AM
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I would suggest sandblasting that entire area first to see the extent of the rust. Then proceed with the repair. Just my opinion. If you just cut out what you see then you may miss some. Good luck.
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Old 10-11-2003, 11:18 AM
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...spot weld cutter and new engine shelf will probably be the way for me to get through this...
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Old 10-11-2003, 11:22 AM
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Geoff, where can I purchase a new engine shelf? To all, thanks for the replies. I have been trying to sand down the rust and it's taking forever. So far though, I think the worst is what is in the pics. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Rod
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Old 10-11-2003, 11:32 AM
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http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/9144/POR_9144_chasis_pg1.htm#item1

Eighth item down on the list.

--DD
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Old 10-11-2003, 03:55 PM
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You might want to take an ice pick to the frame part of the shelf or upper wheelhouse...if you dare. Since you're in Cal it's probably more likely to be solid, but that will quickly tell you the extent of the rust. I've BT and am still DT. And it is pretty cool to DIY!
Go for it
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Old 10-11-2003, 06:18 PM
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Sandblasting works nicely but for a small area like this its over kill. Sand or grind the rusty areas down to good clean metal. Use a paint stripper on the painted area nearby.
You might want to open the long up since you are there (ala DirkWrightsDisease) and spray Osphoso metal treatment in there to preserve the inner long.
Then weld in a nice patch over the hole.
If you take your time this isn't that hard to do. Careful fitting of the new pieces makes for easy welding. It can turn out to look like you have never been in there in the end.
Mine did! I posted pics of it on the 914club bbs of it now that its all painted the factory color finally.

Geoff
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Old 10-12-2003, 06:38 AM
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that rust is not too bad. I prefer a 4" die grinder. Lay the wheel on it's side to grind the rust away. Use light pressure. this is my prefered tool to clean up prior to welding. it works very fast
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Old 10-12-2003, 08:38 AM
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Old 10-14-2003, 08:12 AM
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Sean, great idea....did it today and I think I am almost done. Geoff, I checked the longs and there perfect, not a speck of rust. You mentioned Osphoso metal treatment. Where can I buy some of this stuff? Thanks, Rod
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Old 10-14-2003, 04:54 PM
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Ospho, or generically speaking, phophoric acid is a universal metal prep and etching preparation. It is sold under many different names and is available at paint stores, auto paint and body supplies and many hardware stores including the Home Defect, me thinks. Even old formula Eagle Wheel cleaner had a stiff dose of phosphoric acid in it, but that has been off the market for quite a while. Still, you may find a spray bottlein someone's garage.

The folks at POR-15 sell Metal Ready (or something like that), same stuff, maybe a little stronger. I use something called, "The Must for Rust." Again, same stuff. Just look at the label. One thing, you can't use too much of this stuff. Do it until everything turns dark metal color. Finish up by rinsing with a diluted solution of the same thing, dry THOROUGHLY, and paint with your favorite rust preventative primer or POR 15.
Old 10-14-2003, 06:25 PM
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I just use a wire wheel to clean it all up. I don't like going as drastic as a grinding wheel.
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Old 10-14-2003, 06:58 PM
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Another label to look for is "Naval jelly". Another phosphoric acid product.

--DD
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Old 10-14-2003, 08:32 PM
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If you plan to drive in the rain or wash your car using water, when you do your repair, leave a hole for water to drain out... unless you like water collecting there and be more generous on hole size than the factory was when they made little drain holes that easily plugged up with debris.

- Dave
Old 10-15-2003, 08:21 AM
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Home Depot calls theirs "Jasco $2" . It comes in a cylindrical quarrt, see-through plastic bottle and is green liquid. I found it in the paint isle next to the spray paints. I really likes the POR-15 version called Metal ReaDY $10+. It has a zinc component. It is much more expensive than Jasco, perhaps not worth the extra cash
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Old 10-15-2003, 09:30 AM
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To see some photos of this type of repair go to http://www.restoration-design.com/index.html , click on the 914 links at the left and then the "Installatioin Slide Shows".
Old 10-15-2003, 09:52 AM
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