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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Burlington Iowa USA
Posts: 12
e-brake help

My e- brake dosn't work, the cables move, and pedal system works, but when I pry on the cable attach point on the caliper the wheels don't lock? It is like this on both sides. Is it fixable or do I need new calipers. I thought i'd ask before i took the blasted things apart. I tried adjusting the pads thinking it was a ratchet type brake but nothing happened. Maybe I should buy 911 brakes???
Old 01-08-2000, 09:37 PM
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Mercer Island Washington USA
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make sure that your clearences are correct. when you say you push the lever on the bottom of the calaper, do you really push it far? or does it only move a little bit? how much break pad do you have left? what do your roters look like? if they are smaller than 1cm then it is time to replace them. do neither wheels lock up? maybe it is just the cables, sometimes when the firewall gets real rusted out, the cable gets pulled through the firewall and as a result, one break line gets pulled harder than the other, leaveing you with almost no pressure on one side due to the cable regulator. I have heard that you sacrafice having an e-break if you upgrade to 911, but i'm not sure.

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Michael Scheid
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Old 01-09-2000, 08:44 PM
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Last year I did some work on my brakes, afterward I could'nt get my e-brake to work. I checked and rechecked the clearances and everything else I could think of. Out of curiousity I unhooked the e-brake cable and put a piece of pipe over the e-brake lever on the calipher and pulled it just to see how far it had to move to clamp on the disk. While doing this I heard a distinct "click" and viola! it worked just fine. I've looked at the cutaway diagrams and still don't know just what I did but it works fine now.
Old 01-10-2000, 05:11 AM
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I have brand spankin new pads. the rotors are ok my cables pull the lever on the caliper,and the lever has a good travel, but the pads dont move a bit. The clearances check out. I now need help on what it's malfunction is??? Thanks for the help.
Old 01-12-2000, 05:18 PM
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Join Date: Oct 1998
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Let me get this straight. Your regular brakes work and the Emergency brake doesn't?

If you regular ones work fine, then it isn't your calipers or the brake mechanism itself. Most likely suspect is cable stretch.

Try adjusting your emergency brake cables. Put the car up on a hoist or stand so the rear wheels are free and put it in neutral. The adjustment nuts are at the end of the metal tubes where the cable passes through the firewall. Start with the Ebrake off and spin the tire by hand and adjust the nuts till the brakes engage then back off till it spins freely. Do the same for the other side then engage the ebrake and see how well it holds. You don't want it dragging, but want plenty of grip when engaged.

Good luck.

Ascaris
Old 01-14-2000, 09:42 AM
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Whoops, just re read your problem. If you are moving the lever and the pads don't even move, you've got a stuck caliper piston. Very common in old cars that never had the brake fluid changed. Moisture builds up in the fluid and rusts the piston in place.

You need to rebuild or replace the caliper piston. I've done this on other cars and it isn't hard, but haven't done it on a 914. I think I've heard some people saying it wasn't easy with a 914 but don't know why that would be.

You need to pull the calipers to tell if they can be rebuilt. When you get the piston out, it there is heavy rust or pitting inside they can't be rebuilt. If it is very light, then they might be able to be honed and work just fine.

In any case, if this is your problem you need to get to it NOW. You don't have any brakes.

Ascaris
Old 01-14-2000, 09:49 AM
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an addition to my problem. My fluid controlled brakes work (front and Rear) but when I push on my caliper lever ( e-brake cables are not connected) the pads dont move if this gives you guys any other insight please give me your thoughts. THANKS!!!!!
Old 01-14-2000, 10:08 PM
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I'd tend to agree with Ascaris, the piston is seized. I don't know if I'd go as far as the caliper rebuild, unless they are leaking, but on the other hand these are the brakes we're talking about!

Try removing the caliper, put a piece of wood inbetween the pads. The wood should be a little thinner than the rotor (too thin and the piston will pop out spitting fluid in your eyes). Then have a helper push the brake pedal, if the pistons move freely in and out the pistons are most likely O.K. The reason for the wood to be a little thinner than the rotor is so the piston can pop past and corrosion build-up, hopefully for good. If the piston won't go back use a "C" clamp to return it into the caliper (be careful not to return it too far or fluid will leak out the resivoir up front) try this a few times to see if it frees up the piston. I did this on my 75 and it worked, not as good as re-built but the rears do work now.

If you need to rebuild them there are two kits out there, one has all the seals. On the other one you need to reuse the parking brake seal.
Old 01-15-2000, 06:25 AM
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Hey! Nice Rack! "Celette"
 
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In my experience, Often you can popthe piston out,clean the rusted ring off the piston,remove and clean the "O" ring seal and reinstall. This does work. I've done it lots. If the seals arn't damaged they work for a long time. One more thought, Did a PO mess with and damage the thing(pin) the e-brake lever is pushing?
Old 01-15-2000, 08:14 AM
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I had the same problem. If you have not already noticed there are two set screws on each side of both clalipers. One is accesable through a hole in the rear trailing arm (after a small cover plug in the caliper is removed , this plug may or may not be present depending on the PO) and the other is in plane view on the outside. Both requre an alen rench to adjust with the outer having a locking nut. The one on the back side has to be tightened to the point that it almost makes the inside break pad rub. This will provide the E-break lever and outer piston somthing to push against. If the inner set screw is to loose then you will have week e-break performance. Since you have no e-break sounds like a promlem with the outer set. The e-break lever acts as a shuttle against a worm type gear; so when the e-break lever is actuated it should spin the worm gear thus raming it forward displacing the outer cylinder against the disk which pushes against the inner cylinder which should push against the inner set screw. There is suposed to be an automatic rachiting forward of the worm gear so as the pad wares the worm gear shaft follows the piston and always has the right throw to properly engage the outer piston. This does not always happen, as was my case, if the worm gear/ set screw combination is not damaged then it is a simple matter or tighting the set screw while holding the e-break lever beyond its full actuated position so a to disengage it from the worm gear. this will allow you to adjust the set screw to the point where the worm gear is in contact with the break cylinder piston so when you release the e-break lever it will retract to worm gear off the cylinder. You will then need to fine tune the set screw so that the the worm gear has the proper range of motion ie. no e-break/no pressure applied to outer cylinder, with e-break lots of pressure. A side note check your rear rotors they may be warped from to much use with non adjusted e-break. Mine were so bad that once I got the e-brake adjusted I had to replace the rotors because I could have e-break and rubbing rotors or no e-break and rotors that cleared. Also I think that to outer set scew was a lefty tighty/righty loosey deal, had me going for a while.....

[This message has been edited by iustasail (edited 01-18-2000).]
Old 01-18-2000, 01:03 PM
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