I found under body rust is it bad??? # 2
 

sorry could not put the pic in my other post

sorry I'm new to 914's so rust is a common thing with them?
and is this bad?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1070219252.jpg

1 more place its the trunt support bedint the driver side fire wallhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1070219870.jpg

unbolt your rocker panel(under the door) to inspect the longitudinal as well as under the battery. common area for rust!

how much does it normally cost to have a 914 shop fix this type of stuff and the battery tray just saw mine and the tray is caving in and there is a 2 by 1 inch hole from where the battery tray meets the wheel wall the hole is on the wheel wall

The jack plates are located under the rocker panels. They stick out from the side about 1.5 inches and that is the rust you hope not to find. They are attatched to the longitudinals on both sides. It is common for them to rust. So far the rust you show in the pictures is not that bad or unrepairable. Rip the battery tray out as the replacement is only around $50.00 or so. You will need to remove it anyway to assess the rest of the damage. If there are no moon size craters under it in the long, you may be alright.

what about the 3 by 1 inch hole in the rear wheel wall is that going to cost alot? and where can i buy jack plates

by the way i hope not to find moon size craters (ive seen them before oooooh) "shivers" if i have them will the cost of fixing the under body cost around 1000 dollars???

Depends on how good you can weld and shape metal. If you do find the big hole, take all the parts you can off the car and find another body. It will cost you less.

body as in frame???!!!

The car is unitized, so there is no frame. The body is prety much the whole car. It depends on your budget. The expense of repair can quickly pass the price of the car. If the rust is too extensive,look for a rust free donor car(starting to be hard to find).

so your saying that putting new longs, doughnut jack points ans fixin the battery box wall are so expensive that id need to buy a new body??? the car was just painted not to long ago..... thats just way to much work i think patching or replacing long's and jack plates would be cheaper

again im 20 and i dont have accsess to engine lifts and other tools andstuff to reloacate every part to another body.....

How much do you have invested in the car?If you don't mind me asking?

i took off the rocker panel on the side that has rust? and thereis no rust at all on it the only rust is on the pic i posted plus the battery tray and i havent looked under the passengers side yet , but since there is no rust under this one(besides the pic) there shouldnt be a problem on the other side
it has new paint new german vinal and new windsheild plus receipts adding up to around 10,000 besides the paint and vinal
the problems i have with the car is when its cold it chugs and it feels like it has no power but when its warm its great plus when ever i go over cracks or bumps i can really feel it in the sterring wheel (tierods?)
and it grinds in reverse and alittle more in first (almost everytime ...problably since i see my self using 1st more than reverse) it wont grind if i push the clutch alllllllll the way down to the floor . after driving the car (and clutch) for a while. it some times grinds when i push down all the way into the floor(rarely ) i think i need a peddle adjustment and a new non worn out cable i got it for 3,200 did i do good? besides the problems
was it worth it with the problems
?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1070352845.jpg

plus it came with 1 other new arm rest(no console :( ) 2 new curved chrome sail panels targa top latches some rubber stripping long chrome top roll trim and 5 mahles with new 165 60 15 sumotos???
the wheels on it now have got to go and the tires with it they are pirellis #7000 new 500 to 700 miles on them if anyone interested

10,000.00 warrants doing the rust repairs.The grinding in first may be either bushings for the shift rod or syncros in the tranny. You should feel some feedback from the steering wheel because it is manual(no power assist). If it excessive then look for worn tie rods etc.
We put a great deal of money into our cars for our enjoyment and should not be looked at as an investment.Just enjoy the experience and drive.I have about the same amount in my ride and it is no closer to being road worthy than when I purchased it. Its been 4 months since I have got the car and I still cant get the animal smell out from the inside of the car!

Well, $10K is what someone else put into it. Shorty only put a bit over $3K into it.

Shorty, the bad news is that there is more rust that you haven't found yet. Guaranteed. The good news is that it is all fixable. The bad news is that it requires welding, which requires some skill, some training, and some equipment. The good news is that you can get the skill and training at your local community college or vocational school.

The "longitudinal" usually refers to the pieces behind the black rocker panel covers that run along the bottom edge of the car between the wheel wells. The "jack point" usually means the small rectangular tube sticking out the side of that. Look under the plastic cover on thr rocker cover.

The area with the "donut" for jackstands to go under is usually called the "floorpan triangle". It isn't in our catalog, but I'm pretty sure that we can get it. I didn't see it on Restoration Design's website, but I know that they made them last year. (I have a new one somewhere in the garage, which I won as a door prize. And which will replace the cut-out one on my car some day!)

I think that the other rust area in your picture would be part of the "floor pan", either right half or rear half.

I would suspect that the firewall, the inner wheelhouse, and the longitudinal would all be suspect in this case as well. Remove the screws from the bottom of the rocker cover (the top is riveted on, unless someone has already removed it once) and pull out to see what's going on back there. Pull the back pad and take a look at the firewall. Remove the battery and engine ECU and everything else in the way of looking at the "hell hole" in front of the battery and look down there.

As for the wheels, place an ad in the "914 parts for sale" forum of this BBS. Also put one over on 914club.com .

--DD

is that the only places i should look ? are there any other places prone to rust? i saw some rust on the fire wal and i pounded on it with a hammer , it looks like its only on the top not all the way through

They rust just about everywhere.... :rolleyes:

Most of the rest of the places are reasonably visible. Check under the pedal cluster, and in the center tunnel. Check the suspension pickup points in the front and rear of the car.

--DD

(Well, $10K is what someone else put into it.)

who cares if i didnt put 10g into that car and im glad cause thats 10 g that i wont need to put into the car since the previous owner already did... just less crap to put up with in the future




{no offence}