Engine wont start
 

Well I finally completed my engine rebuild. I was able to put the engine yesterday. I went to start it and it just turns over but will not start. I pulled the injectors and they are squirting fuel. I pulled the plugs and there is spark in each one. I double checked the plug wires and they are fine. I have have ne w cap, rotor, condensor and points. I have a new coil and I tried using the older coil which worked fine when taken off. What else should I check? Thanks in advance.

Rod

Never pops? No ignition at all?


M

Where are you located in So Cal? I may be able to swing by and check it for you. I am in Costa Mesa

If your car has d-jet, check out Brad's troubleshooting page . You can also check out the troubleshooting info on my site .

I'd check: fuel pressure, pull an injector and crank the engine to see if the injector sprays and then shuts off. Check dwell angle. Do compression test to see how the cylinders pump up (valve adjustment could be off and valve might not be shutting). Put #1 cylinder at near TDC and check to see if distributor #1 is lined up and if points are opening. If all tests well, give it a shot of instant start to make it fire.

reversed in and out platic fuel lines will give weak squirt at the injector but not enough to start the car. ask mike why I know this (thanks to Mike the magic monkey)

SKline, I live in Cathedral City, in the Palm Springs area. I turned the ignition on and I can hear the fuel pump buzzing. I start the car and it turns over, it doesn't sound like it's going to run, just keeps turning over. I'll check the pressure of the the fuel regulator, but prior to taking the engine out, I hooked up a gauge and it was fine. Thanks for everyone's advice, I really want this car to run.

Rod

Sean, it's funny that you mention that, because I noticed that the injectors were squirting kind of weak. I have the clear plastic fuel line running from the middle line of the fuel pump to the fuel rail closet to the battery and the other one is running to the line that is connected to the fuel regulator.

Dont give up on me now guys, I still need help. I just did a compression test. All cylinders are at 126psi. I was told that this number will go up as the engine breaks in. I can smell fuel from the tail pipe and I double checked that I have spark on all cylinders. I sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body, still nothing. I placed the engine on TDC for cylinder #1 and the rotor points to the notch on the distributor. Should I do a static timing and if so, can someone tell me how? Thanks for all the advice.

Rod

I'll bet the distributor is 180 degrees out? Did you watch an intake valve open and then close to make sure it was the compression stroke and not exhaust stroke? When you tested spark, were all 4 plugs out and touching the engine at the same time to see if they spark in firing order? Finally, are you absolutly sure 100% that the cam is timed right? When you pull the valve cover to watch the intake valve try to get a measurement of when the intake opens and closes in relation to the #1 piston. Good luck

John, you were right. It was 180 out. I rearranged the wires and she fired right up. Man it sounds good too. So far no oil leaks. Thanks to all for the help. I couldn't have done it without all of you.

Thanks again,
Rod

I hate getting the dizzy 180 out. I think that we have all been there.

yup! Im glad you got it running

had the same issue:
a)Check for vaccum leaks
b)check your ingnition timing. mine was WAY off after my rebuild

Hey PB what are the specs on your rebuild? Glad you're runnin'.

Scooter, It was just a bone stock rebuild. Everything is new internally except the crank and connecting rods. I was going to do a partial rebuild only, but I am glad I split the case and went the extra distance. Well worth it and so far no oil leaks and I have great compression.

Thanks,
Rod