Metal of doors pop in!

[lmcchesney]

I have found that the metal on the outside of the door pops/folds/bends in when someone (my son) leans against the door. I have taken the liner off and with the window up, I am able to, "pop" the metal back out, but will re-occur. How do I support the door metal/body on the inside to prevent this and still allow for a working window?
Suggestions?
L. McChesney
lamcchesney@netzero.net

[John Kelly]

You have an "oil can" probably caused by previous repair work to the sheet metal. Some areas may need stretching, others shrinking to get the metal back to its original state of just the right tension. You might make a brace that holds the skin out until you can get it repaired correctly.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

[lmcchesney]

Thanks John,
It sounds correct in that it does not damage the paint. Is the streching something a body shop should do or a home projec t?
Thanks,
L. McChesney

[John Kelly]

A very good body shop should be able to help, but it takes an understanding of what the metal needs, most likely a little stretching and smoothing, followed by some shrinking...hard to say without having it in front of me. Also the paint will need to be taken down to bare metal inside and out. Oil cans can be difficult and time consuming to correct without a lot of filler.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

[914GT]

If the panel is visibly distorted and needs bodywork/paint then you can consider what John is suggesting. If the paint is OK and the door skin still looks good when popped out, I'd recommend doing something yourself. If your door has the reinforcing brace (later 914s) I'd use a caulking gun to inject some body panel adhesive between the brace and the skin. Or seam sealer, windshield sealant, or even silicone caulk would work. If no brace then you can stiffen the panel by spreading a layer or two of body filler (Bondo) on the inside, or epoxy a strip of sheet steel (18 or 20 ga) across the inside of the door.

[lmcchesney]

Great idea Guy.
I just finished placing the fiberglass flares on. I'll try a strip or two of the 18Ga steel and fiberglass in.
Thanks,
L. McChesney

[lmcchesney]

Just finished correcting the doors. I placed a 3/4 X 1/8" X 4ft flat rolled steel as a brace. Trimmed the length so it was a little longer than the inside of the door. Poped the door dent out. Slid the bar between the rolled up window and the outside rubber seal. This allowed the brace to be placed in the space between the window mechanism and the outter door panel. Wedged the brace to give it a small inward bow. Placed fiberglass resin jel between the brace and the outer door panel with extra portions at the ends to secure them. Cut pieces of wood to fit between the inner door panel and the brace. Pushed the bow out and inserted the wood wedges. Cured for 24 hours. Removed the wedges. Now you can not push the door panel in. Success is sweet. Fist time in the five years I have had the car that when you lean against the door it doesn't oil can in.

John and Guy, with your permission I would like to add this to the Tech articles. I have taken digital pictures during the process.
I'll write the article and send the manuscript to both of you with the pictures in a few days for your editing.

Thanks again,
L. McChesney

[914GT]

It's OK with me. You're the one that did all the work! Glad it worked out. I bet your door is going to sound better now when you shut it. Then you'll have to do the other one too.

[lmcchesney]

Dear Guy,
The other side is done.
I'll send you the draft.
Email so I can include pictures?
L. McChesney
lamcchesney@netzero.net

[John Kelly]

Fine with me, but I don't think I was much help with this one!

John www.ghiaspecialties.com