shift bushing mod needed
 

Hi Folks

Happy New Year to all.

Over the holdiays I changed out all the shift bushings and rebuilt the shifter with parts from Pelican. All went well until I noticed two things that that I feel still need improvement. Both concern the rear shift bushing that the (long) shift rod from the front rides in as it first enters the transmission housing. Even though the bushing is brand new, there is still a fair amount of play between the rod and the bushing. Maybe the rod has really worn (doesnt look it). Red-Beard builds up this area and then files it down to get a really small clearance. I was going to do that until I also noticed that the bushing itself is flopping around a fair amount. Its like the hole that it gets mounted in has become elongated over time. I'm surpised the bushing stays in at all.

Question is: is there some other bushing available that clamps or screws or gets bolted in instead of just a press fit? I have seen reference to something Ottos' sells but dont know who Otto is.

Also, at the end of red-beards's transmission rebuild article he calls out a couple of parts needed to rebuild the shifter that are only available from Porsche. I was able to get them from Pelican with the rest of my order in just a few days and that was really convienient. Just so you know.

OK, the long story is over now, Thanks

Curt
'73 914 2.0
Lompoc, Ca

Usually Pelican can get you anything Porsche can. But when I wrote the article about 1.5 years ago, I could only source those parts from Porsche directly. I did include a "Wayne - are you listening?" in the article to that point.

What you are describing is what happens when the bushing wears out and the shift rod sits, metal to metal. I see quite a few people loop in tie wraps between the bushing and the metal until it snugs the bushing. Mine it tight. If I needed to fix this, I'd take it to a shop which can weld it. Close up the hole, re-drill it, and put the bushing back. I'm not sure if you can braze the housing, but that might work as well, for fill in material.

James

You can epoxy the bushing in place as well. It makes the next bushing replacement kinda ugly, but it works.

--DD

Hmmm. Dave. I think you're onto something. JB weld would be stronger than the solder and still easy to sand. I'd use JB weld on the opening, then drill the JB weld for the hole.

I suffered the same "ovalization" problem, so I purchased the brass-type rear shift bushing from GPR and JB Welded it into place.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1073353613.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1073353636.jpg

Works like a champ; no slop, no muss, no fuss.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate...WavingFlag.gif

What did that cost you?

JB weld, a great idea, I did not even think of that. About that brass bushing, who is GPR?

Oh yeah and red-beard, I guess Wayne was listening, I saw that comment in your transmission rebuild article, glad you inserted that. I thought I might have to drive to a Porsche dealer to get those parts which was kinda puttin me off from rebuilding the shifter. My comment above was alerting others that you can save a drive and hassle and get those parts at Pelican. After reading your entire article, I might just attack the whole thing, a great article!;)

Curt

Thanks! Coming to a bookstore near you soon!

I have that bronze rear bushing too; works great. It looks like Ottos and GPR supply the same/similar part. I dunno if Pelican sells these too but you may want to check over in the catalog...

PS It could be considered rude to post competitor's links on this board but try searching on Google for "ottos venice" or "gpr parts" and you'll be -really- close.

An easy fix for that sloppy bushing that was actually designed that way by Porsche, is to use several plastic wire ties and loop through the bushing between the rod in ID of the bushing and tighten over the outside of the casting. I use this on both our 914s and they last as long as I have needed them in place. Cost is pretty nice but NOT as high tech as a bronze bushing.

I bet I can find a workable bushing at an industrial supply house for cheap money. Let me look into it. Anyone know off-hand what the OD of the shiftrod is at that end?

I like the JB Weld idea - when the bushing needs to be replaced - you can probably hit the JB weld with a chisle to get it off.

I had to do that once with a model Airplane engine I put back together wrong (cracked case). Once I got it together correctly though it lasted 2 years of regular use before I had to redo the JB weld to hold the case together.

Good stuff.