914/6 conversion manual

[bostonmeche]

Hi all,
I've been slowly picking up bits of info off the board here and have decided that I really do want to do a 3.2 conversion. I was wondering if anyone here has read the "HOW TO COVERT A 914.." by George Hussey. I realize that he is part of AA but any comments on the book? Is it worth getting? Is there a better manual? I've read all the info in the conversion area but I have simple questions like:
1. Do I need a front oil cooler?
2. Should I shell out $800 for a fender mount oil tank or should I do some sort of remote mount dry sump system? Benefits?
3. What are the things I should know but don't before I start the project.

My 914 already has the 911 suspension and brake upgrades. It now needs a good motor to keep up.

Thanks for the input!

[jamcleod]

i'm pretty much a stock 914 guy (76hp 1.8L L-jet whooo-hooo) so i myself haven't done a -6 conversion but...

i've heard anything > 2.4L needs a front mounted oil cooler like the 914-6 GT front cooler like thru the bumper...

my guess is a factory -6 oil tank is best... but $$$

i don't know what you should know before hand except for the depth of your piggy bank and how to wipe that grin off your face when you floor it (with a 3.6L???!!!)

i've heard that the factory bulkhead engine mount is preferred to the quick 6 mount; something about shift linkage getting in the way. also, need to make sure the 901 transmission will handle the HP output of the engine or a least realize you can't side step the clutch and do burnouts...

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Originally posted by bostonmeche ... I really do want to do a 3.2 conversion. I was wondering if anyone here has read the "HOW TO COVERT A 914.." by George Hussey.

Never read it.

Note that the 3.2 requires some care to fit in a 914. Either you need the "adaptor flywheel" to fit the engine to the 914's gearbox (and one that has the teeth for the DME's crank position sensor if you're keeping the injection), or you need to convert a later 915 gearbox to work in a 914.

1. Do I need a front oil cooler?

Yes, no, maybe. I would upgrade that to a "probably" with a 3.2 motor. JP doesn't have one with his 2.7 RS-spec motor, but some people have reported that they really do need a front cooler... Best way is to try it and see, and don't make any design choices that will prevent you from adding the cooler if you do need it.

2. Should I shell out $800 for a fender mount oil tank or should I do some sort of remote mount dry sump system? Benefits?

Should you? Well, you should buy lots of parts from Pelican!

The stock system fits. You drill the holes correctly, bolt everything up, and there it is. You usually wind up having to get some oil lines made with $$$ fittings (AN-to-metric isn't real cheap), and there are details to work out like the filler neck and so on, but it all fits as if it were designed to. Because it was.

The aftermarket dry-sump setups give you much more flexibility about where to mount the tank--put it in the battery location, in the rear trunk, in the front trunk, and so on. They generally hold quite a bit more oil than the stocker as well. They tend to be fairly expensive if you get one that actually works correctly--has baffles to keep the oil from sloshing, de-aerates the oil, etc.

The downside of the aftermarket ones is that you have to make the decisions about plumbing, location, mounting, and so on.

I personally feel that the stock tank is better for a street car.

3. What are the things I should know but don't before I start the project.

That is always the question, isn't it? In some ways, that's a bit like asking someone to predict all of the unpredictable things that could happen during a project... I do know that these things always take much longer and cost much more than you think they will.

--DD

[John Rogers]

Depends on where you want to drive. At any auto-x in San Diego the 914/6s don't beat a good 2l by much so the $$$$ spent has small returns. Figure on spending somewhere between 10 to 15k to get an engine and do the conversion if you have a shop do it, at least in Southern CA. This is not a big horse power RSR motor either but one with some life left in it after someone has decided to get a bigger engine. As for a front cooler and lines, figure close to $600 for braided lines and an Earl's 50 row cooler and An fittlings. As Dave said, either oil tank is okay, stock requires less hacking and looks stock. I would buy the needed parts over time and lessen the impact or sell a block of Imclone stock and do it all at once so the pain on the wallet only hits once. Good luck.

[no substitute]

I bought the pamphlet (21 pages) several years ago. It's a good basic primer for someone who is new to the conversion in question. What's it go for now? There's nothing in it that isn't covered in this forum in FAR greater depth. There are some wiring modification instructions, and all the rest of it in overview, so in that sense it is useful. I plan on a stock oil tank, and probably an oil cooler as I will go with at least a 3.2. Jim Smolka says the 3.2 is easier to fit than the 3.0. Bulkhead mount also seems best. The Quick Six is easy but heavy. There are several options on the backend drive and suspension, but I'm leaning towards Mr. Smolkas recommendation of using 911 parts including stub axles. I need heat so that is going to be one expensive aspect of the conversion. The front end you have handled. I'd also strongly consider frame stiffening (see longitudinal thread). There's a ton of info if you do a search. Keep reading and eventually it will come together.

[J P Stein]

Hay, No Sub.
I'm having a gathering of 914 & other Porsche lunatics at my place on 21 Feb. Come on down and see my conversion....convenietly up on blocks for viewing. It's "only" a 2.7L, tho.

[Jim Smolka]

FWIW, I have a spread sheet of the cost of the conversion. You will need a front cooler also. Figure about $1000 for cooler and lines.

Also, I have a 3.2 with FI for sale.

[bostonmeche]

Thanks for the input. I guess the Conversion manual is a waste of money $15?

I was looking at the dry sump systems as a way to reduce costs but I guess I would be better off not re-inventing proven design practice and stick with stock.

I was doing searches for the 915 transmission swap and didn't find any primers on what needed to be done to do it. I was planning on just beefing of my 901 and use an adapter plate but I often see deals that sell the 3.2L with a 915 tranny. Just curious as so how much work was involved in it.

Jim,
I still have some house projects to finish (1000ft of molding to put in) before I can actually start acruing expensive parts. You already have sent me a copy of your spreadsheet thanks for the offer though. It was really insightful as to the money and labor entailed.

[bostonmeche]

On a side note, a friend gave me a ride in his Viper RT-10. It was an exilerating experience. I haven't been in any brutally fast cars like that before. Anyway, I keep hearing about how a 914-6 isn't as fast as 911s. Is that because people are assuming a 2.0L and not some larger engine? or is it that 914s even with larger hp just can't put the power to the ground for some reason?

Essentially when I'm driving my car I want that feel that I had in the Viper. Neck Snapping Power. Literally, my neck is still a little sore....

[Jim Smolka]

3.2 914's are not has fast as Vipers, but I can pass most other stock 911's on the track Of course now the car has 10.5x16 race slicks on the front and 12x16 slicks on the back

[BURN-BROS]

Build a 3.0 to 3.2 rsr engine which should out you right at the same power/weight ratio(around 6 to 6.5 lbs per h.p.). Now that will snap your neck!

[bostonmeche]

Yea, I knew a 3.2L 914 wouldn't be as fast as a Viper, atleast not with my budget. I just wanted to make sure that I would be capturing the over all feel of raw hp power that the Viper exuded. Bottom line, it needs to be fun.

[BURN-BROS]

So what is your budget?

[bostonmeche]

I was thinking I might be able to do this with about 10k+-20%. I don't expect to do it all in a month like some people can. I expect the project to take me a couple more years. I can start collecting parts now but it will take a while before I build a garage to properly take everthing apart and leave it in pieces while I figure out how it all goes back together.

[mskala]

It also could be in the same cost ballpark as selling your
car and buying a completed or near-completed conversion.

Depending on your level of interest in do-it-yourself-ness.

Mark S.
'70 914-6

[iiibdsiil]

I have the Patrick Motorsports -6 bar. It is truly a nice piece, and it doesn't hang low in the center at all.

www.patrickmotorsports.com

I am pretty sure I have a 901 gear box, and it takes everything I throw at it.

Everything I have heard/seen, you need a front oil cooler. If you wanted to get into it it, you could make a 944 turbo intercooler an oil cooler, I have seen that before.

If you want A/C, you are going to have to notch the firewall in, so hopefully you aren't tall, because it will require you to move you drivers seat forward a little.

Feel free to email me with any questions or pictures or whatever. I have a digital camera, so I should get back to you within 12 hours of your question with pictures if needed. I can find an answer to most questions if I don't know it already also.

I will be out of town until Sunday night though.

- Brett Smith
brett@craincorporated.com

[BURN-BROS]

You might be able to pull off a 3.6 for that and be firmly in the 7 lbs per h.p. area. Thats the same ballpark as the corvette z06 . I know a guy running a 901 straped to a 3.6. He runs it at willow springs and the other events and get a good season out of it. He replaces the tranny when it starts to ooze from the seams.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

I was doing searches for the 915 transmission swap and didn't find any primers on what needed to be done to do it. I was planning on just beefing of my 901 and use an adapter plate but I often see deals that sell the 3.2L with a 915 tranny. Just curious as so how much work was involved in it.

You need to flip the ring gear, which isn't all that tough if you can do transmission work. You also need to fabricate a shift linkage and a clutch linkage. Most 915 conversions wind up being home-brew 'tailshift" setups, with frankly really horrible shifting. I think that Wevo makes a side-shift conversion kit. http://www.wevo.com/porscheproducts.htm Vellios used to, but I have heard some bad stuff about the manufacturing/machining on some of his stuff. We used to carry those; I'm not sure if we still do. The availability was always spotty...

Bottom line, it needs to be fun.

Heck, a 1.8 is fun when properly driven!!

And finally, I would not use any of the motor mount bars that attach to the four-cylinder mount locations. One or two people have had the bars fail, which results in the engine falling onto the shift linkage.

--DD

[no substitute]

The booklet is probably worth $15, but it won't be revelation, and it won't give you all the details you need. It also includes the template for the oil tank mount, although the body is already stamped with the location points. The 700 tips book is pretty good, but I'd buy my parts here.
Who are the guys in the S.E. that make plug and play engine kits for the 911? I don't know whether or not they do a kit for the 914. I don't think so.

[Hawktel]

Take your 10 K and go to the 914 Club classified, and buy Malmz SBC conversion car for 8 Grand. Spend 1 grand to get it to your house. Sell your current car for as much as you can, and get a sorted Pantara ZF tranny, and throw a Supercharger, or Juice on the SBC, and show your viper car friend how acceleration really is.