914 engine rebuild

[kmhemi]

I am rebuilding my 76 2.0
Are you suppose to use any type of sealer between the case halves or just assemble them dry? this 2 piece engine case is new to me. it didn't have anything when I disassembled it and I was amazed that it never leaked.

[Dave at Pelican Parts]

Yes, use sealer. Get the junction hyper-super-extra clean, use either Curil K-12 (I think it was) or another sealant whose name escapes me (rats, they're all going, must'a killed too many brain cells!!) and a piece of waxed dental floss. Though I just saw Raby advising someone to use the dental floss "split in half"? (Sorry, that's precision that is beyond me!)

--DD

[Jason Porter]

It's Curil K2, and if you call us we'll sell you a whole pallet of it

I was told to use this stuff called Yama-Bond, and I did. I'll be sure to let you all know my results.

Seriously, you have to use something in there or it's going to leak. In fact, if you use the best sealant in the world, it's still going to dribble a little. It is a 914 after all.

Have fun with that motor...

[silver2.0]

Heres a post of Jakes from earlier this year;


Curil K2
Curil T
Gasgacinch
Permatex Hylomar
Permatex Aviation
3M weatherstrip adhesive
Permatex Teflon thread sealant (but not on threads)
Indian Head sealant
Permatex 3H
Loctite 518
Loctite 565
Loctite 574 Anerobic
Thats whats on my bench right now, as well as a roll of waxed dental floss..
I can't tell you where to use each of these sealants, but I will tell you that with some experimentation these in the right places will keep an engine BONE DRY.
Brent, my partner here built a 1700cc TIV engine in 1988, the engine ran so dry that the pushrod tubes rusted from the outside in and finally had to be changed, thats how dry the engine was for 14 years!


Then he breaks down and lets loose with the info!-



What the hell...
Let's not forget that Loctite and Permatex are now the same company. The name "Permatex" was kept for their automotive line of sealants and the term does not denote any particular one sealant. There is duplication under both lines. The Loctite name is still used on the their mil-spec and industrial products.

-casehalves: Loctite 518 (new technology) or Permatex 3H Aviation Form-a-gasket (old tech)
-sumpplate(s): Hylomar 71285, now avail from Valco. Awesome stuff - a must have!
http://www.valco-cp.com/Hylomar.htm
-sumpnuts/washers: Permatex Ultra-grey, Loctite 5699, 3-bond silver or grey (Cummins p/n 3823494 - cause I like the small tapered metal nozzle). All these, essentially the same product, readily available, and are much more oil-resistant than other RTV's.
-headstuds in case: Blue loctite 242 (w/ case-savers, which are essentially inserts with enclosed bottoms). You only need this as a convenience to keep the studs in place.
-headstuds/nuts/washers in head: Ultra-grey/5699/3-bond silver. Small bead under washer only.
-case studs/nuts/washers: Ultra-grey/5699/3-bond silver. Small bead under washer only.
-rockerstand studs: 242
-valve covers: 3H, gasket to cover only. Let cure overnight before starting engine.
-push rod tubes: good quality seals only.
-fuel pump: hylomar
-gen/alt stand: hylomar
-oilcooler/adapter: good quality seals only
-oilpump to case: hylomar
-oilpump to cover: hylomar - thin coat. Do not use RTV which, unlike Hylomar, will squeeze into (and plug) the return groove.
-full flow fittings: Loctite 567PST high-temp thread sealant (green 292/sleeve retainer is overkill, but thank you for sharing Gene).
-oil filler type 3 and 4 (+universal case): hylomar
-oil pressure switch: Loctite 567PST high-temp thread sealant.
-gallery plugs: Loctite 567PST high-temp thread sealant and lock per B. Hoovers detailed instructions.
-pulley sand seal holder to case: 3H. It seals, doesn't harden, and still allows easy removal to change the seal.
-cam plug (metal): Permatex high-temp form-a-gasket #1572. Awesome *****! Messy, stains fingers!
And lets not forget,
-jugs to case: Ultra-grey/5699/3-bond silvercasehalves: Loctite 518 (new technology) or Permatex 3H

[Jake Raby]

These applications change all the time as we try new stuff...... The count right now is 15 different sealants to build one engine leak free.

It also depends greatly on your preparation and parts cleanliness as much as it does on the sealants..

Technique is also something that needs to be perfected, especialy with PR tube seals..

[silver2.0]

Jake, how do you push in the push rod tubes? By hand? I will be doing mine in a bout a week, and was wondering, when it was so hard to pull the damn things out.