V8 Throttle and stuff
 

Hey V8 folks...
The throttle "pull" on my 914 w/a chevy 305 does not open the throttle fully. It only will pull it a little mor than half open. Does anybody have any suggestions before I stary doing surgery on the throttle fulcrum or accelerator pedal? Its a Holley 4776 600 CFM double pumper

Also, my car originally came w/ a/c. I have cut out the wheel wells for cooling as well. should I fill this lower hole? Does it make cooling worse or better with it open?

Has anyone ever removed the oil pan with the engine in the car?
Thanks
Mark

Well, I cant help you much yet on the throttle issue as mine is not done yet. But as for the metal in the front, yes, weld up and brace the floor of the car, with the fenders cut out and the floor out, you have very little structural support in the front of your car. It would fold up really easy in any kind of collision. better to be safe than sorry. Why do you need to pull the oil pan? From my experience, the only time to pull the pan is to replace something. If you need to replace something, pull the engine out to do it.

The oil pan has a weeping hole in it
Yhx
Mark

Mark,

It is possible to replace oil pan with engine installed but difficult to really get all the surfaces cleaned up (on your back) prior to installing new front and rear seals. As easy as it is to pull the drivetrain in a 914, I'd suggest this over making so many trips under the car to R&R oil pan. If you have a lift vs. floor jacks, it will make it easier and worth a shot.

My car had dealer installed a/c and I was using the fender cutouts as recommended by Renegade. A sawzall party provided the factory metal needed to seal up the front trunk.

Johnhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1089378662.jpg

let me know what route you take. my oil pan front seal is leaking and I will need to do this soon also.

OH...throttle. move the cable hook-up pivot out on teh carb linkage. Holleys and edelbrock have two holes to choose from.

I have a couple of pics of throttle linkage as installed on a 600 Holley and had no problems getting adequate throw to open fully. I did have to turn in the throttle stop under gas pedal just a few turns.

The bracket that cable is secured to came with Holley carb and I believe it was originally used as part of the auto trans. kick down feature. Worked perfectly to secure throttle cable when attached to bolt on thermostat housing.

Johnhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1089457498.jpg

asfgsdhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1089457539.jpg

John, Could you take a close up picture of the where the cable hooks to the carb? I need to see how you go from a straight pin to the hole in the carb. I am about ready to hook that up.

This is about the best I can do without taking it apart. From memory, the piece connected to bellcrank and connected to cable came with my carb..

The bolt securing piece to bellcrank also secures cable. If you do use this piece, don't put 100 ft. lbs. of torque on it.........this would prevent the swivel action. This one has been in service for about 2 years now without issue.

Johnhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1089470310.jpg

Thanks for the pics, I have my throttle cable coming from the rear, but I might reverse it.

I ended up taking my oil pan problem to the local mechanic... it cost me $150. It was worth it, I've been working 12 hours days and I would rather spend time driving than fixing.

Thx
Mark
72 914 5.0L
Heres some pics of my car:
http://members.aol.com/jtronika1/