Um... You tell me

[Germain]

well, judgeing form the lack of responces from everyone on my last 2 posts, I'd say I got everyone kinda stumped right now

Heres a car summary, recap, and the latest.

Car Summary - 1973 2.0 914 with all stock equipment. Only exceptions, No Deaccel Valve (Removed because I can't find a T connector in good shape), and the Crane 700 I threw in to try to fix this problem (Needed new points anyway).

Problem - Car periodically misses around 2-3k RMP

Fixing attempt #1 - Dwell, discovered bad points, put in Crane 700 yada yada yada.

Problem - Car looses all power when pedal is pressed 1/3 of the way down, then power is resumed when pedal crosses the 2/3 position. During this time, Tach drops to 0, but engine is turning. Car still misses.

Fixing attempt #2 - Throttal Sensor works fine. I get spark while its power is loss. I unplugged Throttle Sensor and still got power loss.

Fixing attempt #3 - Kicked car, did little to no improvement on performance. Heck, I didn't even dent it. I guess I kick harderw next time

Fixing attempt #4 - Well more of a diagnoses. I unplugged the Tach, and the car did the same thing. It's not the tach grounding.

Fixing attempt #5 - begging with everyone here at PP to help me... PLEASE <- look at that sad face.

Okay, well there ya go. Ideas welcome.

Thanks all! Take care

Kevin Germain

[JP Noonan]

Check the fuel injection points in the bottom of the dizzy.

Check that the injector plugs are tight and in the right order.

Make sure all the spark plug wires "clicked" onto the plugs and confirm the firing order is right.

Do you hear the fuel pump running when the car dies? Maybe a bad connection.

Make sure the hose to the MPS is tight and the connector isn't loose.

Drive the car until this problem occurs again, at the exact moment turn off the engine. Check the spark plugs, black a sooty: I guess the spark is weak or the MPS is sending way too much gas to the injectors. White or grey: lean from the MPS, bad connections somwhere, or bad FI points.


Sorry to say, maybe it is time to start over. Go from the battery to the tail pipe, re-check everything you've done in the past 6-months. I know, not much help, but hey, that's what I here for...I think

[Germain]

Thanks JP.

I forgot one key thing. The car only does it when warm.

[JP Noonan]

My 75 2.0L used to cut out when warm, but throttle positon made no difference. It turned out to be a inline resistor added between the CHT and the wiring harness. Look for a black pill shaped thing about 2" long hooked up to the CHT sensor. Remove it. If there isn't one there Make sure the connector to the CHT isn't coroded and test the CHT when warm it should give <300 ohms disconnected warm, or 0.2-0.4 volts with the engine running and warmed up.

Another way to test it is to use a 300+/- ohm resistor as a "dummy" CHT or just ground the wire to see if that helps. It will not be the ideal mixture, but if the motor is warm it will run better than a bad CHT sensor.

[This message has been edited by JP Noonan (edited 05-22-2000).]