![]() |
Quote:
Thanks, |
For the rear of my 914-6 3.2, I used 901/911 tranny drive flanges, a custom made spacer (I have these available), early 911 CV's, early 911 stub axle, 911 hubs and now some monster NASCAR style 12" rear rotors and calipers :D
|
What do you have up front?
Any problems with rear lock-up with the bigger rear brakes? I bet it stops real nice. |
I would do what Jim did or the original 6. I think drilling rear hubs are dangerous for street. For racing, no way. Someone posted awhile back that the bearings that are in the front rotors will see a great deal of heat.
If you go 911 front suspension, choose 3.5 inch caliper bolt spacing for either S,turbo, calipers(a's too I think).as a rule, S calipers are good for 2000 lbs and 200 h.p. I got a great deal on my complete 911 suspension so look around and grab them when they come up. |
Quote:
well, this has been discussed here and currently right now at 914club.com....so far not 1 person has seen a failure from redrilling the rear /4 hubs....street or race and I know a few cars that are running slicks that are much wider and sticky compared to any tire the factory knew of 30 years ago :) of course I like Jims method, the more bolt-on items the better since replacement is much easier if you need to do some R&R in the future........ |
I know people do it, and their cars do not suddenly burst into flames after they do the mod. It still won't change my view. For a couple of hundred bucks you can get the 914/6 stubs. I got front and rear 911S suspension for $200.00 (praise to the recycler!). seems to me that this option is hard to beat.
|
For the front of the 3.2 track beast is a 911 Carrera setup with Turbo Tie rods. The brakes are huge 13" rotors with NASCAR calipers. Brake bias is adj with a dual MC set up that is mfr from the stock pedal cluster. The 2 MC's are mounted where the stock MC is located.
|
I went the 914/6 stub axle route (those ones from mittlemotor..got a good deal). I already had a set of 911 rear hubs...with the 914/6 stub axles everything just bolted up! No fit issues anywhere and I feel more comfortable (maybe it is only peace of mind) knowing all the parts are being used as intended.
|
If you do drill the rear hubs, don't just tap them for bolts. Do it the right way--spot-face around the back of the hole and press in studs. They will be stronger than a threaded fastener, at least if you have that flat spot on the back for the "shoulder" of the stud to sit on.
Besides, then you won't have to mess with wheel bolts again! --DD |
Will 911 front hubs work with my 914 spindles or do I need to buy 911?
|
buy 911
|
How about the camber plate. Will my 914 plate work wit 911 Struts?
|
I think so.
|
Yup, they're interchangable. 914 A-arms work, tie rods, camber plates, etc. All you need is 911 struts /rotors/calipers and bolt up. As previously noted, You can choose between those with 3" spacing for M calipers (low end) of 3.5" for A, S or other Big Brakes calipers (high end). I went with the 3" because that's what I found when I was looking, but then upgraded to the BMW big brakes (not the best, but good enough for my needs and a major step up from 914 stock.
|
Quote:
I was going to buy a set of hubs elsewhere. Should i look for used spindles as well? It is about $400 more here to buy complete strut assemblies over just inserts. |
Quote:
L@@K: Just what you need for $200 |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:53 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website