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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 600
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OK, so here I am, putting the motor back in, AGAIN, getting it fired up (wow, it runs pretty darn good too, but I'll post that one seperately later, with a couple pix too) when I notice that, during my test drive, "Gee, it runs soo nice, but it just doesn't seem very snappy..." - when it started to stick right nicely and give me a little pre-halloween scare.
Back into the garage, check the linkage and springs, then check the cable - AHA, that bugger's so tight it would hardly budge, AND I could hear broken strands in the sheath. Crap! So tell me, is there a trick to it, are there some steps I should follow, and how long does it take ![]() What brand do y'all recommend as well? I swear I'm gonna get a couple good drives in before it snows!!!!! Aaaaargggghhh! ![]() Cheerio
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How do you change the clutch cable too? I need to do that pretty soon after I get it painted this weekend.
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Black 72 1.7 914 http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Biggy72/ WSU Formula SAE Drivetrain team leader/ Suspension team http://www.mme.wsu.edu/~sae/ |
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Downingtown, PA, USA
Posts: 118
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Just did both. Found the clutch return spring broken so I also rebuilt the cluster. Apparently some time in the past, the clutch cable clevis broke and one of the PO's had it brazed back together. It was slightly mis-aligned, so the clevis pin was driven through the clevis. I had to completely remove the cluster, unscrew the cable from the clevis, and drive the pin out with a pin punch. You 'should' be able to disconnect the clutch clevis and throttle cable ball socket with the cluster in place by reaching through the access holes, though having small hands will help. Cables should just push up through the tubes from the engine bay. Make sure to grind any material off of the crimped area of the cable end that protrudes above the diameter of the fitting so it doesn't bind as it goes through the tube. Highly recommend the Terry clutch cable, don't know about their throttle cable. As an additional note, McMaster Carr has metric clevises, and P/N 2448k46 is identical with the part that was in my car. Don't know if it is identical to the Porsche part. The Porsche clevis pin appears to be surface hardened, and I'm not sure if the McMaster pin is.
Harvey
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Grove City, OH
Posts: 1,397
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Terry cables rock
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AKA: Dr Evil on the 914World forum, need your tranny rebuilt, or want a "How to rebuild your transmission DVD" set? PM me. -74 914 with 74 2.7 CIS -74 VW Bus with modified 3.1 corvair engine and 3.0 CIS fuel injection system. -74 BMW R90 |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 600
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Thanks for the help, it was a sinch getting the old one out, here's a pic of the lil bugger - I'l be putting the new one in soon, hopefully before the weekend!
![]() What a mess, geez ![]()
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