Rusted Floor Pan

[k_mesaros]

Are these very hard to sawzall out and replace with new ones? Has anybody ever tried, and learned some tricks that would make the job easier?

[BenI]

I Sawzalled mine out and it wasnt too bad-given it was august in Florida. I did the job about 2 years ago. I looked around a bit, and found Tweeks had the best deal on floors-both pans with seat mounts and seat mount hinges for about $200 (I dont think i knew of Pelican at the time). Anyway, I used a compressed air driven sawzall to cut 4 pans out right by the flanges they welded to. It took several blades, and a pair of ear plugs, but they came out. I kept the reinforcing pad around the pedals because it had studs and was in good condition. I then payed someone to weld on the new floors. You probably know this, but when replacing the floors check to see if the car is sagging. I looked up on this site and found chassis dimensions, and used a straight edge to sight the side boxes. Good luck!

[Patrick]

I replaced my pans about two years ago as well. I also got them from Tweeks. There are two versions of pans sold. The Tweeks type is just the pan halves without the seat support or pedal support. You can buy the seat supports separately but not the pedal support. The halves are split across the car from door to door. The other pans (which I was not aware of when I did mine) have the pedal support and seat supports already welded on and are split down the middle of the tunnel. Doc and Cy's and a few others sell this type. If I had to do it over again I would buy the "split down the tunnel" type. They save a lot of work on the installation by having the pedal support mounted up. They're a little more expensive than the Tweeks type but worth it in my opinion.

[k_mesaros]

The car comes with new floor pans already, but I don't know what type. I wanted to look into a few things before really checking the thing out too much. If I look at the 914 too long I will end up buying it.

Thanks for the help!

[Ascaris]

I replaced mine last year, as well as the lower parts of the inner and outer firewalls.

Rather than using the sawzall, I suggest using a spot weld cutter in your drill. Especially around the center tunnel. It is a little more work up front, but will leave you with a much better surface with less grinding for your weld prep.

If you don't have the seat brackets with the new floor pan, look in the PP 914 tech articles for how to fabricate them yourself.

Good luck.