914 rusted hub/rotor
 

Here is the probolem:
Two screws that hold hub and rotor together are rusted more than oil can get in between them, impact screw driver does no good, penetrating oil does no good. I could drill them out (maybe) but am thinking it is better to replace hub, tried to use wheel puller to extract hub, but just managed to separate drive shaft from hub. Now that I have dug myself in a hole, is it best just to replace the hub/bearings? And how do I get the axel back into the hub?
How much have I broken? Have I trashed the tranny?

Pictures
 

Here are some pictures of how I think it is put togeter.

Red is berring, yellow is hub, green is the rotor and the blue two dashed lines are where the parts allow the drive shaft to come through. Am I anywhere close to how it is put together? (best I could do with basic image utilities)

What I want to know is: Can I remove the hub and rotor attached, or are there any plates in the way?

You should try a reverse drill bit. The heat from drilling and the counter clockwise rotation of the drill bit will loosen the screw.

OK, then is there anything special to remove the hub?

Once you remove the rotor a three leg puller will pull the hub off.

Why can't I remove the hub and rotor together?

because the bearings hold the hub to the trailing arm

Anyone know what the part number for the 914 rear hub is?

Galto-
you should do a search on rear wheel bearings. Someone on this board put a real nice procedure together.
Your drawing is basically correct, by the way. I did my rear wheel bearing a few years ago and as I recall this is how it went:
Get the big nut loose in the center of the wheel. I ended up having to cut mine off.
Take the wheel off.
Take the brake caliper off and hang it out of the way.
Take the drive shaft apart at the tranmission.
Knock the drive shaft out through the hub, to under the car.
Pull the hub out of the bearing. I don't recall if I took the disc off at all. I guess you maybe don't have to??
Get the bearing out of the trailing arm. They are pressed in from the outside. I think I beat them out from under the car. I also think there may be a circlip somewhere that I at first did not remove. They came out a lot easier after I did remove it.
Make up a tool from a length of 3/4" threaded rod and some nuts and washers and sockets to pull the new bearing into the arm.
Use the same tool to pull the hub into the bearing.
From under the car, put the axle through the bearing and through the hub.

Like I said, do a search. Lots of people have been through the rear hub, disc, bearing job.

Have fun.

Karl

Y'know those screws aren't critical....
They just hold the rotor on there while you bolt up the wheel. When I replaced my rear rotors I was surprised that mine were LOOSE (sorry yours was not). If it's not too late, I think I would drill 'em out and retap.

I had a terrible time getting the castle nut off that hold the hub to the stub axels. Never had a problem with the screws that hold the rotor on.

I had to get a huge impact socket and try for about a minute at 150psi before the castle nuts first broke loose with the impact wrench. I guess they had been on for 28 years. The recommended procedure is to get a huge breaker bar and "jump". I didn't feel as comfortable with that incase the socket slipped and stripped the nut.

Part number for the rear hub: 914 331 605 07...
Why may i ask do you need the part number?

When getting the hub out, i use a peice of 1.5" tubing, which fits perfectly on the inner race, and wale on it with a 5lb hammer. That usually does the trick. Soaking the bearing OD with WD40 or some other liquid helps get the rust to brake up the hold to the bearing. The only solution if everything else fails, that i have found, is a press.