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914 things..... need help
Um, hello all! College student with a have-to-daily-driver 914. Car is bucking every once in awhile at all RPMS, had a problem with Fuel Pump Relay continunity, seems to not switch unless positioned a certain way. I tried spreadding out the contacts on some pins, do I need a new relay or what? Also, how hard is changing out the condensor? I changed the points and I have heard the condensor shoudl go as well. Please help?
Britt |
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grind weld build
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try swapping it with one of the headlight motor relays from up front. did you clean teh contact holes in teh relay board?
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flesh heals, memories last forever! 73 Orange, CS #601 73 Rayco V8 glug, glug 69 911 w/82 turbo look on 275 35 18s (for sale) Trek 6500+ Sean M! |
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no...i didnt think you could. Looks pretty rusted too! what do you use for cleaning those buggers.
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grind weld build
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de-fuzz teh end of a Q-tip then wrap it with a little pc of fine sand paper. Radio shak sells contact cleaner that works well also. If it is really nasty, just take the relay board out of the car to make it easier to do a good cleaning jog. Its only held in by 2 screws
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flesh heals, memories last forever! 73 Orange, CS #601 73 Rayco V8 glug, glug 69 911 w/82 turbo look on 275 35 18s (for sale) Trek 6500+ Sean M! |
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relay board
have you heard of soldering those rivets in the relay boards, i have never seen one out of the car and with the tar taken out, but I assume that all of them were riveted?
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,599
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You should also check your timing. Too much total advance (vacuum + mechanical) can cause bucking in all gears.
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grind weld build
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although I was only addressing teh electrical issue, Guy has a very valid point. always check the cheap or easy stuff first. I re-did the joints on a relay board once but it is a time consuming affair that might not cure a simpler problem. air cooled engines can be severely damaged if the timing is off.
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flesh heals, memories last forever! 73 Orange, CS #601 73 Rayco V8 glug, glug 69 911 w/82 turbo look on 275 35 18s (for sale) Trek 6500+ Sean M! |
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Just set it actually....it ran fine until the relay stopped working....but right now i have the retard disconnected as the AAV doesnt work at all (closed all the time) but maybe i need to hook that up...just doesnt like to run with the host connected to th retard (and yes when the retard is unplugged the hose is plugged)
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grind weld build
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what engine do you have? Is it stock FI?
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flesh heals, memories last forever! 73 Orange, CS #601 73 Rayco V8 glug, glug 69 911 w/82 turbo look on 275 35 18s (for sale) Trek 6500+ Sean M! |
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it can sometimes be a real pain in my-you-know-what, but i do have a 2.0L D-Jet '74 with the FI system still going and going with the occasional squibble. what about yours? most people dont like fooling with the FI so they get carbs...i am just worried about gas milage....heard it kinda sucks
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grind weld build
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I advocate keeping the FI unless you have a hyped up stroker. My daily driver is a 72 1.7 D-Jet. My previous daily driver was a 74 1.8 L-Jet. I really liked teh L-Jet car. My fun car is a 73 with a 350 Chevy. the first thing I do with my FI cars is go through ALL the FI connections and clean them. My 1.7 gets close to 30 mpg if I keep my foot out of it
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flesh heals, memories last forever! 73 Orange, CS #601 73 Rayco V8 glug, glug 69 911 w/82 turbo look on 275 35 18s (for sale) Trek 6500+ Sean M! |
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Quote:
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the only thing that scares me about the L-Jet car is the backfire issue.....is it really that bad bc i have heard that L-Jet is actually better in some ways..
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According to Google, "I" am Mike Mueller ![]() 1974 914 with 72 1.7 and 74 L-Jet system (vroom) |
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I removed my relay board, chipped out the tar (what a mess!) and checked all the connections. I resoldered a few but it was apparent that the "repaired" connections were no better than the aged ones, and I nearly melted the plastic ridge separating some of the circuit paths in a few spots, so I stopped. There is a diagram that shows where the relay connections exit the board at the multi-pin connector near the firewall. I believe if you really suspect a bad board you should do some continuity testing to see if the circuits are good. I don't think the effort I put into rebuilding that relay board had much value.
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yeah a high-watt soldering iron will do that... I have a 40 watt and a 15 watt, which is good for small stuff. My dad actually has a 100 watt iron. I might as well just set the relay board on fire....lol. that tar is a mess, but if relay board repair doesnt do any good I will move on to the relay. it DOES work and it is sealed but I have a new relay waiting for me in Louisville....hopefully. so i will try the contact cleaning then the new relay then the relay board repair
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According to Google, "I" am Mike Mueller ![]() 1974 914 with 72 1.7 and 74 L-Jet system (vroom) |
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grind weld build
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why not just play musical relays to see if the problem changes? I guess you will find teh time when it dies on teh side of the road LOL
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flesh heals, memories last forever! 73 Orange, CS #601 73 Rayco V8 glug, glug 69 911 w/82 turbo look on 275 35 18s (for sale) Trek 6500+ Sean M! |
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well the VW guy who i got the car towed to ordered another relay for the relay board. but he switched them and it worked fine. it's only making most-of-the-time contact. the socket is rusty so I am going to clean that off..
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According to Google, "I" am Mike Mueller ![]() 1974 914 with 72 1.7 and 74 L-Jet system (vroom) |
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