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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: springfield, mo
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pertronix wiring

hello there,
new to this forum and i have to say i like it a lot. i accidentally posted this Q in the 911 forum, but indeed my Q is for a 914. i was helping a friend over the weekend drive his 914 from tulsa to springfield, mo when i had a sudden power loss and a lot of popping('73 1.7). before the trip i took a look at the points to check the gap and i thought they were off a bit b/c when i rotated the engine to put the points rubbing block on a lobe of the distributor cam shaft to open the points up all of the way, i couldn't slide a .024 feeler guage into the gap. i had picked up that spec on some other site. i would have set them right there on the spot but i had no idea how to open or close them. my old car has a really easy adjustment, but the 914 has me a little confused. what i really want to do is pull the points and put the pertonix EI into, but another confusing turn for me is the timing. i think i'm starting to figure it out thanks to theh tech articles at pelican. now, to my real Q, what is the best way to wire a pertronix in the 914?
tim
Old 03-01-2005, 07:16 AM
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I believe the points gap is supposed to be 0.016", not 0.024". A business card makes an almost perfect emergency substitute, BTW.

Wire the Pertronix just the way it says: The power wire to the (+) side of the coil, the ground wire to the (-) side of the coil. That's all there is to it, I do believe.

--DD
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Old 03-01-2005, 09:35 AM
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.016 you say? hmmm. i will have to look at that site i pulled the 914 specs off of and correct them. as far as the wiring goes, i was just making sure i didn't have to splice into a special wire with a resistor. thanks for your help!
tim
Old 03-01-2005, 10:32 AM
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Sometimes the Pertronix unit will burn out very quickly if you don't have the right coil to go with it. John Connolly at aircooled.net can tell you which coils will work.
Old 03-01-2005, 12:49 PM
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The stock black coil, and the stock-replacement Bosch blue coil, both have internal ballast resistors. (You can find Bosch blue coils that don't have it, but the ones sold as stock replacements do.)

No extra resistor is required.

BTW, the Pertronix can fry if you hook it up backwards, or if you leave the key on for too long without the motor running.

--DD
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Old 03-01-2005, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Sometimes the Pertronix unit will burn out very quickly if you don't have the right coil to go with it.
Here's the lowdown straight off the Ignitor website:

What type of coil can I use with the Ignitor™? How do I check my coils resistance? (12V negative ground only)

To determine if your systems coil is compatible with the Ignitor, some measurements should be taken prior to installation of the Ignitor. Caution… While performing this test, never leave the ignition switch on for more than 30 seconds at a time.
Set your voltmeter to a 15 or 20-volt scale. Attach an 18 or 20 AWG jumper wire from the negative coil terminal to an engine ground. Attach positive (red) lead of your voltmeter to the positive side of the coil, and the negative (black) lead to an engine ground. Turn the ignition switch to the run position. Now read the voltage at the positive coil terminal. Turn the ignition switch off. If the voltage measured is approximately 12 volts, no resistance wire is present. A typical resistance wire will provide 9 - 6 volts.
The next step is to determine the resistance in the primary ignition. Label the wires attached to the coil terminals and note their appropriate location. Make sure that the ignition switch is off and disconnect all wires from the coil. Adjust your meter to the lowest ? ohm scale. If you are using an analog style meter make sure to zero the needle. Measure from the negative terminal to the positive terminal. Write your measurement down.
Now the maximum system amperage can be determined, divide your voltage measurement by your coil resistance measurement. This will give you the system current or amperage.
Four cylinder engines should not exceed 4 amps. Six and eight cylinder engines should not exceed 8.5 amps. If the total amperage in your system is higher than the amount recommended for your application, you should install a ballast resistor.
Example Voltage 12
Resistance 1.5
12 / 1.5 = 8
Total amperage 8
Quote:
BTW, the Pertronix can fry if you hook it up backwards, or if you leave the key on for too long without the motor running.
Again, right off the Ignitor website:

What will happen if I leave the ignition switch on when the engine is not running?

Leaving the ignition switch on when the engine is not running, can cause permanent damage to the ignition system, and related components. This does not apply to the accessory position of the ignition switch.


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Last edited by Rouser; 03-01-2005 at 01:59 PM..
Old 03-01-2005, 01:52 PM
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Good information.
Old 03-01-2005, 02:19 PM
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i bought the flamethrower to go with it. that's the same combo i have on my corvair and i have never had any trouble, of course my 64 is a lot less complicated than a 914!
just so i will know, can someone tell me what each wire is for on the positive side of the coil? i think i saw three hooked up the stock coil on it now, the pertronix would make it four.
tim
Old 03-01-2005, 05:27 PM
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There should only be one wire on the positive side of the coil--the one that is feeding power to it.

Some people hook other things that need "switched power" to the coil in order to power them. (E.g., carb fuel pumps, the FI's aux air regulator, etc.) But those are not stock.

A 1.7 or a 2.0 should have two wires plugged into the negative side of the coil--the green wire from the points/condensor, and the black/purple wire from the tach. A 1.8 should have a white wire also plugged in there; this wire gives the L-jet FI an RPM and timing signal.

--DD
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Old 03-02-2005, 07:20 AM
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