What is the best way to bleed 914 brakes?

[Wayne 962]

Hi there again everyone. I'm attempting to write a tech article on bleeding 914 brakes. I've done it myself several times, but I just haven't found a method that I really like. I'm about to bleed the brakes on a 914 that I'm going to have to sell, so I would like to solicit the 914 gurus as to what they think the best method is. I'll sample the lot, and then publish the results in a tech article on our site.

Many thanks!

Wayne

[Steve Lutz]

I start at the farthest caliper from the master cylinder and work my way to the nearest. I get a clean jar with some clean brake fluid in it. Put a tube from the bleeder valve into the jar ensuring the end of the tube is well into the brake fluid in the jar. Open the bleeder valve, and start pumping the brakes. The air from the tube will be blown out the first press of the pedal. Keep an eye on the brake resivouer(?). I pump until the fluid in the jar comes out clean. You will see layers of old and new fluid. Once you see clean brake fluid close the bleeder and go to the next corner. Continue at each corner, this way is useful if you don't have a pedal partner (my wife hated pumping).

[divezic]

I dont know what bleed method works-my brakes are still mushy-but I know that the Mity-Mite vacuum pump does not work. There is so much resistance to flow from the proportioning valve that the pump can't pull fluid through, just air bubbles from around the threads of the bleed valve.

[John Rogers]

I was reading through all the topics and noted this was what we just went through. I installed the BMW 320i upgrade and Metal Master pads but then we could really feel the valve cycling for the rear brakes. I looked into a manual valve, but Chuck at CNC brakes in San Diego (they make brakes) said to just put in a tee, so I did and after a through bleeding, the 914 stops REALLY GREAT. I am not really convinced that the valve is necessary as our 1987 Turbo does not have one and it has no rear wheel lockup??

[Wayne 962]

Check out the tech article on brake bleeding to get the prop valve bled properly. I did it on mine, and it has never felt as good!

-Wayne

[dman007]

I agree with Steve with one exception. I have always started with the wheel closest to the master cylinder and worked my way around the car ending up at the furthest(passenger side rear)wheel. It has been awhile, but isn't that the correct way? Hey, I could be wrong.

[michel richard]

Just a minor point I would like to chip in.

I often read about starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder when there is a discussion of bleeding brakes.

I must say that I can't see the importance of this, in the case of the 914 rear wheels, at least, because the brake lines for the rear come out in the middle of the firewall.

From the perspective of the brake fluid, IMHO, the path to both rear wheels is the same length, or am I missing something ?

Regards.

[Wayne 962]

Close, but not quite. If you look carefully, the lines come through the center tunnel and then head towards the driver side where the proportioning valve is located (on some cars). Then the prop vavle divides and sends the fluid to either side, with the passenger rear wheel being the longer side. So they are close but not equal.

-Wayne