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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: London, UK
Posts: 16
SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENT

I have uprated the suspension and brakes on my otherwise standard 1.8 (for the moment at least) and would like some advice on adjusting geometry and height.

At the risk of repeating myself I have done the following:

- Front BMW Calipers
- steel braided brake lines all round
- stiffer rear springs
- 19mm Weltmeister front sway bar
- Bilsteins all round
- stiffer bushes all round
- Turbo tie rod

I have the following questions:

I would like to know what the reccomended geometry would be with this set-up?

Are there any 'tricks of the trade' re: the actual adjustment ie shims to use, etc...?

I have adjusted to rear height so that there 2" gap between the wheel rim and top of rear arch, however, I want the front to be slightly lower but it is as low as it can go. What, if anything, can I do to lower front more?

Any help/Advice? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

B

Old 11-15-2000, 01:44 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: palatine, Il, USA
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I'm Interested in lowering my 914 also. How did you lower the rear? I understand the front, but looking at the bilsteins i cannot figure it out.

Thanks,
KIrk

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Old 11-15-2000, 04:04 PM
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Jim Smolka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Hickory NC USA
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To lower the rear, their are a couple of options.

1. Buy shocks that have adj spring perches. I am using the adj Koni sports with 140 lbs springs. I will be going to 200+ springs soon.

2. Buy coil overs for the rear.

Not sure of the best setting for toe in and camber, depends on use and goals for the 914.

To lower the front, I assume that you have adj the torrsion bars screw adj. If this does not solve the problem remove the bar and turn it one spline notch.

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Smoke Daddy

[This message has been edited by Jim Smolka (edited 11-15-2000).]
Old 11-15-2000, 04:49 PM
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John Rogers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: chula vista ca usa
Posts: 5,697
Jim is right about the rear. There are three methods, get shocks with the snap rings and you can adjust about 1/2 inch at a time, get the adjustable threaded spring mounts from Automotion, but that requires small diameter Koni shocks, the adjusters and the springs and finally to lower it you could cut some of the spring with a cutting wheel. It would take trial and error but would work. I use the Automotion setup as I use 300# springs for road racing and have some heavier and some lighter as springs are about $50 a set for the rear. Good luck.
Old 11-16-2000, 05:50 AM
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Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Dade County, FL.
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I wouldn't make the front control arms any lower then parallel to the ground.

If that isn't enough you can grind off the factory weld between the spindle and the strut casing, move the spindle up and re-weld. I wouldn't mess with it myself but maybe there is a race shop around you.

Old 11-16-2000, 09:18 PM
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