How do I remove the rear axles?
 

I've got the rear trailing arms removed from the car but I can't seem to get the axles removed. I removed the 4 bolts to the cv joint but the axle only gets loose but wont come off.

I'm assuming that I probably need to remove the nut from the wheel bearing area but I just thought I would check.

Any advice would be great...........................Vern

i say you do NOT need to remove the axle nut. the CV's are held on by the 4 (or 6) CV bolts but what will keep the CV from separating from the flange are 2 pins from the CV to the flange which have a tight fit into the flange. it's almost like you have to slide hammer the CV away from the flange but i wouldn't do that. maybe some penetrating oil or rotating the wheel while trying to coax the CV to separate. hopefully, someone will post their trick but don't remove that BF axle nut.

Thanks!

I wasn't sure if that axle nut would need to come off but I also didn't want to apply too much force until I knew for sure.

Vern

Someone probably has the "correct" way to do it, but I always used a large flat blade screwdriver and hammer. Tap the blade into the joint where the gasket is. As you get the two halves to spread a bit, move the screwdriver to another location and gradually work your way around the circumference. The joint is just stuck on the two pins and needs some force to loosen it. If the axle has not been removed for some time, it can be a bear to separate the joints.

Jamcleod is correct, you do not need to remove the large nut on the wheel side. You would do that to remove the stub axle and replace the rear wheel bearing.

It's a ***** to get the CV off the stub axle...

I ended up bending a screwdriver so I could get enough leverage and carefully pried them loose..

This is one of those jobs where if i had to do it again, I'd replace the rear wheel bearings at the same time and remove the stub axle. Which is an even BIGGER PITA.

haynes manual version: remove bolts

re-installation is the reverse of removal

:D

Thanks for all the advice.

I'm going to remove the stub axle afterwards anyway because I want to replace the rear bearings and I'm going to either paint or powder coat the trailing arms.

I figure as long as I've gotten this far.....I might as well do everything.

Vern

The "standard" way to get the axles completely out is indeed to remove the monster castellated nut and drive the stub axle out of the hub. This should not kill the wheel bearings, because the hub still holds them in place. However, if you leave the car on the ground (perhaps) or roll it more than a little ways (definitely), you will then waste the bearings and have to replace them.

It's when you remove the hub itself from the trailing arm that you trash the bearings.

It's a huge PITA to get any kind of pry-bar in between the outboard CV and the flange on the stub axle. Many folks feel that it's preferable to just pull the stub out and deal with the CV on the bench, in a vise.

--DD