No. You cannot just put the rotors on. They are sandwiched between the hubs and the wheels. All three parts need to have the same bolt pattern. To fit the 911 rotors, you will need to change the hubs. Buy the 84 911 front struts. You will have better brakes and the correct bolt pattern. You will also have to upgrade the master cylinder to the 19mm 911 master cylinder as well. This is because the 911 calipers have larger pistons and therefore require more fluid to move the same distance. This means either much more pedal travel, or a bigger master cylinder. Go with the bigger master cylinder.

At the rear, you need early 911 hubs, 914-6 rotors, and 914-6 stub axles. The hubs are internally splined and are inserted into the wheel bearings from the outside. The stub axles are externally splined and are inserted into the hub from the inside. A large nut holds them together. You can see this nut when you remove the centercap on your wheel. It actually threads onto the stub axle. The early (pre 1974 I think) 911 hubs fit inside the same wheel bearing as the 914. The later 911 hubs require a different wheel bearing that will not fit in a 914 trailing arm.

JTB

[/QUOTE]... The early (pre 1974 I think) 911 hubs fit inside the same wheel bearing as the 914. The later 911 hubs require a different wheel bearing that will not fit in a 914 trailing arm.

Do you mean that i can use pre-1974 911 hubs/studs DIRECTLY into my 914 splines and bearings? Eliminating the need of redrilling my 914/4 rear hubs? Thanks for the reply.

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I was away from email on vacation. You will need to replace the rear hubs with 911 hubs. The stub axles must be 914-6. This is because the 914-6 stub axles are the correct bolt pattern to fit the 914 CV joints and the correct spline to fit early 911 hubs. The 911 hubs give you 5 studs like you want. You then replace the rotors with 914-6 rotors. These are commonly available and fairly inexpensive. This eliminates the need to drill your current rotors. The wheel bearings will need to be replaced only because it is impossible to remove the hubs without destroying the bearings, but you will still use stock 914 wheel bearings.

If you plan on driving the car very hard, like at the track, I would recommend this approach, along with the 911 front struts discussed earlier. This is much stronger than drilled hubs.

Call Pelican. They can sort you out with the required parts for the rear.

JTB

Hi, can someone tell me the exact dimension of the bit head i should use to redrill my rear hubs? Allowing the studs knuckles to firmly get crushed?

Thanks.