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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 362
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New Fuel Line
Okay, I've read dozens of posts and articles on the subject. Sorry if this is just a rehash of those. But I want to make sure I got it right, and get a few questions answered.
Car/Engine: '73 1.7L/Webber 32/36 DFEV single barrel progressive carb. Primarily what I want to accomplish is replacing my old worn fuel lines, and get rid of all the old unneeded F.I. parts (regulator/FI fuel pump/return line). The PO was nice enough to leave them all there...hmmm? I won't get into it all, but for example, the fuel path still goes thru the F.I. regulator and pump plumbing. 1. Is this fuel path right: Fuel tank>>[length of car]>>filter>>pump>>carb? (The filter and pump both being carb specific.) 2. I don't need a regulator for a carb right? 3. Should I relocate the filter and pump to the front, or doesn't that matter for carb setups? 4. It doesn't make sense to leave the return line (full of gas) run the car length if it's not needed, so should I just cap that at the tank? What's the best way too do that? 5. Any suggests on the best parts to use for this line replacement? Right form the tank fittings to the carb hose? Thanks, Tim '73 1.7L (with old fuel lines) |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: chula vista ca usa
Posts: 5,699
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Here's what I think based on my 914 with dual Webers:
1. Sounds right. 2. No regulator required, should have 3 to 4 psi at discharge of pump to the carbs. I use a Facet pump. 3. My pump is mounted where the batt used to be so it can be accessed easily for replacement if it fails and it works well there. 4. My return line fitting is capped. 5. Check the posts on this site for replacement ideas, my car has steel tubing. Good luck. |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Santa Clara
Posts: 375
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It took me days and days.. but I found
EZ Beader http://bakerprecision.com/earls20.htm too cool..puts a bead on your line so you can use just rubber hose and a hose clamp instead of expensive AN fittings. I got one and it works great. It has a ball bearing that moves out of the mounting as you tighted the nut. As you turn the tool around it places a bead from inside the tube. Put a hose clamp on the far side of the bead and you have a very good seal. -Rich Hilgersom |
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