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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Portland, OR
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Eliminating portions of FI...

I seem to not be able to leave my FI in its undisturbed state. I'm always trying to get rid of hoses for some reason. Fear of vacuum leaks maybe???

I have a '72 1.7.

A long time ago my aux air valve quit functioning. I blocked off the hoses and while I refurbished it I kept driving the car. No big deal, I don't drive when it's cold, usually just on sunny days. So the lack of this FI 'choke' didn't bother me.

Then I read somewhere that the decel valve doesn't really do anything. So I took it out and blocked off the lines. No difference in performance.

I'm re-doing all the intake seals and having my injectors checked/cleaned. And I'm at a point in the cleaning/assembly where I could block off my cold-start valve rather than put it back in. I'm thinking I'd get rid of two FI line hose-clamp junctions (hate those, always worry about leaks), and eliminate a possible internally leaky valve which I can't really test easily (would cause a rich mix if it leaked, right). Like I said, I usually don't drive when it's cold out.

Somebody talk me out of it. Set me straight before I take out something like the MPS!!

-Todd
Old 09-20-2005, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Somebody talk me out of it. Set me straight before I take out something like the MPS!!
This is where I'll quote the ol' saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Most of the time we're hearing from individuals with OEM FI complaining this component doesn't work properly and that part is all #@$%& up, right after they grab/clean/reroute/upgrade a handful of FI.

Wanna be one of them?
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Old 09-20-2005, 02:28 PM
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Actually, of the three components, I think the CSV does the least. The AAR is very handy so you don't have to "tap-dance" at stoplights for the first ~5-10 minutes of driving, and so you can keep a nice 900 RPM idle when the engine is warmed up.

The DV helps keep the RPMs from dropping too quickly when you let off the gas and push the clutch in; supposedly it can also help reduce some of the wear and tear on the diaphragm and anerometers in the MPS by keeping the vacuum from getting too high.

The CSV is only "on" when the starter is cranking and the temperature is below about 40F. Which means it is very rarely active. Mine is currently disabled, no ill effects that I can find.

--DD
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Old 09-20-2005, 02:31 PM
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I don't plan on rerouting anything, Rouser, and I know how the parts are supposed to work. And BTW I don't want carbs...

I've done heard tell that the cold-start valve doesn't really do anything until quite low temps (freezing, maybe? can't remember where I read it). If that's the case, maybe it's hardly ever fogged fuel into my car's plenum. Anybody have some info on that valve and why I should keep it? Rouser's post didn't really convince me.

-TH
Old 09-20-2005, 02:36 PM
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Whoops Dave, you beat me to a post. Thanks for the good info!
Old 09-20-2005, 02:36 PM
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My cars are minus all you mentioned, and I never miss them. It took them out when they failed. To start it when cold, just turn on the key, press the pedal a couple of times, and crank it.
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Old 09-20-2005, 04:22 PM
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Ahh, good. I'm definitely leaning towards blocking the CSV off like I kinda wanted to (if you couldn't tell).

Thanks for the reply hardflex.

-TH
Old 09-20-2005, 05:21 PM
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i'd like to give a counter-nix-the-CSV story. i have/had an 81 vanagon which became hard to start (in all weather conditions). as you might know, 81 vanagons are L-jet. it was diagnosed with a faulty CSV and started fine after it was replaced. i have only removed the decel valve on my 914.
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Old 09-21-2005, 04:59 AM
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If you drive your car when it's cold, fix the CSV. I prefer, in the cold, to drive cars with heaters and defrosters that actually work.
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Old 09-21-2005, 05:47 AM
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I'm not sure if its the sme, but on my '76 2.0, the AAR (aux. air reg.) has a wire that comes out of the bottom (pointing down towards the engine, and snakes through the deepest darkest part of the engine bay. The wire is permanently atached to the AAR (no disconnect possible) and was cracked and brittle. I discovered this b/c it was shorting out to the engine block and blowing a fuse and/or causing a no-start. Now I'm a fan of tap-dancing...
Old 09-21-2005, 07:25 AM
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On a 914 2.0 I had back in.....93' or so, I removed all the above mentioned parts. I turned up the fuel pressure a little, used injectors from some volvo sometime (Can't remember), took off the air box and put on a simple K&N cone filter and seperate crankcase breather box, upgraded to I think a crane ign with like a .45 plug gap.... it was a hot little FI 2.0 for back then I thought. I liked having all the stuff removed. The whole system was simpler, less lines and tubes running around.
Old 09-21-2005, 07:26 AM
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Just to follow up...

I have my car back together, minus CSV, minus the Aux air valve, minus the decel valve.

Runs better than it ever has! Of course idle is a little low at first, but warmup is really pretty short.

I'm happy not having those potential gas/vacuum leaks in there. Thanks for all the advice!

-TH

PS: It probably also helped things to have my injectors cleaned and tested at Cruisin' Performance... what a great deal, highly recommended!
Old 11-02-2005, 10:21 PM
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I've got all of my hoses and equipment connected properly. In the morning, I go outside, reach into the car and turn the key....it starts right up. A few minutes later, I get in and drive. About once a month, I stop at the gas station & fill up.

What am I doing wrong here....everything on my car works and I get about 30 to 35 mph. I put about 4k miles on the car last year

Vern
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Old 11-03-2005, 12:23 PM
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Sorry. Just thought I'd try and eliminate a few potential leaks in the system and see what happens. I guess I'm the bad 914 owner here.
-TH
Old 11-03-2005, 12:34 PM
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