Restoration Questions

[Mark Howard]

I have a few restoration questions for you experts out there that have a few t-shirts. I have a 1975 914 currently under restoration. This is my first restoration so I have a few questions I need advice on. The body is in good shape overall, with rust in the typical locations under the battery tray and around the headlights.

1. What is the best way to remove the rusted sheet metal under the battery tray, behind the rocker panel? Saw, torch, A-Bomb?
2. What is the best rust inhibiting paint to use on surface rusted areas before final painting?
3. Once the rusted sheet metal is removed, what is the best repair technique? Do I tack weld sheet metal in place and cover with a fiberglass repair kit or what?
4. There is a large hole (18" X 14") in the floorpan of the front trunk where the AC condenser (?) sat. Now that the AC has been junked, how do I repair the Grand Canyon?
5. Has anyone use the sound deading material on the floor and rear deck of the passenger compartment? Was it worth the $39.95 as advertised?
6. Like PP says, a large bengal tiger from Louisiana State got hold of my seats. Is the upholstry kit sold by PP easy to install or should I just go to an upholstry shop?
7. The car has a severe case of "chicken legs". I bought some trash tires (195 65R15) to roll the car aroung the shop while under resto. Does anyone know the tallest and widest tire that will fit without rolling the fenders or installing flares?
8. The rubber seals on the car are history. Does anyone have some tips on matching and replacing the rubber without spending $1299? Is the kit worth it?

Sorry for all the questions at once. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Mark Howard
Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Pristine 1988 911 Carrera
1975 914 1.8 in resto
1970 914 waiting attention

[racejoe]

Let's see. Hard to answer for sure without seeing the car, but here goes.

1. Spot weld cutter to remove whole panels, sawzall, angle grinder and dremel for partial panels.

2. I have used POR-15 system, getting ready to try some Zero-Rust, I think either is okay. I have had Rass-O'nil highly reccomended as a converter, sounds and looks better than the POR-15 metal ready. Will be trying it out this weekend.

3. Best method is to purchase/fabricate new panels and spot weld new panels in.

4. Maybe cut the floor out of another car and weld it in.

5. Don't know, curious myself.

6. Don't know, my parts car had all new upholstry and carpet.

7. With stock rims, generally 205/60R15 is the largest tire that will fit. With VW rims, usually a 195/65R15.

8. Don't know, my parts car had all new seals so I am using those.



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Joe
74 Yellow 1.8L 914
72 Tangerine NoL 914

[SteveStromberg]

My choice for rust area is OSPOH to treat the rust and Hammerite Smooth finish for Paint.Steve

[Mark Howard]

Steve - What does OSPOH actually do? Stop the rusting process or just coat the metal to prevent future rusting?

mh

[racejoe]

I've heard of that Skyco Ospho I think it is called, but I have never used it or seen it. I presume that it is a rust converter like the Rass or the POR-15 metal prep.

Where do you find it?

------------------
Joe
74 Yellow 1.8L 914
72 Tangerine NoL 914

[DDS]

I have a local upholstery shop doing my seats for much less money than the aftermarket vinyl. So far it looks excellent too, as good as factory. I'm having them make me a set of 914/6GT knock offs next.


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-- Dave
Yellow '73 1.7
was a 6
now a 2.0
will be a 6

[KWales]

I first used Ospho about 20 years ago- they were using it to treat the rocket gantrys at Cape Kennedy Florida. All that salt air would corrode anything made from iron or steel (Hondas last about 2-3 years- ask me how I know!). As rust removers go it is just OK. It is a green liquid (like water)made from Osphoric acid that you paint onto the rusty item. It (the acid) eats the rust, and converts the surface of the deep rust areas to magnetite. The main problem is it's fluidity- it runs off of anything that you paint it on. To keep it in place I have taped on saturated cotton balls, sponges, etc. It eats them and the ppaintbrush too. Forget it if you need to derust the underside of anything. Also need to neutralize the ospho after the application- painting on dried acid is not good for new paint!

I am now using an automotive Dupont metal conditioner 5717S which seems to work better and faster. It is mixed with water and applied to the rusty item. Dupont also makes a metal neutralizer and mild galvinizing conditioner that is applied after the 5717S. Navel jelly works for those impossible underside areas.

The best treatment is the reverse electric process where the metal refinishers dip and strip your parts in a big tank. I had a trunk and a front fender done for $65 and $50 respectively. Those suckers (without any paint) can last for at least 6 months in your garage without rusting. I have just about reverse engineered that process and will post a how-to later.

Ken Wales

[chunger]

Question 5 suggestion:

I found a product called B-quiet. Asphalt-based sound deadener similar to Dynamat, but ridiculously cheaper. They give free samples so i'd order up a sample and compare to dynomat. . . I'm ordering a bunch for 914 and a Datsun Z. Look 'em up on the web.

[ericross]

Dave (DDS) -- your local upholstery shop wouldn't happen to be in the San Francisco Bay area, would it? I am looking for a good upholstery shop for a car that will never be a collectors' item, just a toy (it has a rewelded-on front end after a PO's accident). Leather would be terrific, but perhaps not worth it given the collectability of the car. Vinyl is what I'll likely go with, but fuzzy fake leopard fur is starting to win points...

Thanks for any responses.