Oil Leak around screen holder

Bee Jay · 03-28-2001, 02:30 PM

I have about 100 miles on my newly rebuilt 2.0 liter engine. I have solved all oil leaks except one. It leaks around the plate that holds the oil screen in place. I torque the nut to 9.4 lbs, no leak. Start the engine, drive it to get it hot, then it leaks. It takes about another half turn to get the nut back to 9.4 ft/lbs. But after retourqing, and running the engine, it leaks. I put the two round gaskets in dry, should I be using some form of sealant. It is not a serious leak, mayber two tablespoons a night, but more than I want to accept from a new engine. I am going to try the tuna can sump next. Anybody experience this problem?

Bee Jay

paulhagedorn · 03-28-2001, 02:58 PM

Have you checked the bolt that screws in to the side of the case to hold the oil pick up in place? Make sure that bolt is tight. One thing you should do, if you change your oil any time soon, is when you have the plate off, grab the bolt that is sticking down from the oil pick up on the bottom of the engine and try wobbling the pick up. I found that on my engine, this was very loose...because where the bolt screws in to the side of the case, the case was broken.

But, I don't think that would be your problem. You may want to try getting a new nut for the screen also. Did you use a new copper gasket under the nut? I think it is supposed to have one, but not completely sure.

Paul

JP Noonan · 03-28-2001, 06:28 PM

There is a aluminium crush washer that needs replacement.

I use a copper spray gasket dressing on just about all my gaskets, works great. Also put the plate on a peice of glass and see if it is tweeked.

Jake Raby · 03-28-2001, 07:38 PM

OH NO!!!! you may be getting the "syndrome"
This is a huge problem with the 914 engine.

If the center bolt is ever over torqued, the case webbing will be fractured, resulting in this problem. it will leak there forever if the problem has occured, the only way to repair it is to tear it down and have i re welded.

I have made a lock plate that tightens against the sump area, then locks into place. This worked pretty well...

This is the worst case scenario, but probable, if it refuses to hold torque.Do not overtighten it to stop the leak, or the "Syndrome" is inevitable.

try using some GRAY silicone around the gaskets, very lightly. Also check the sump plate to see if it is warped, bent or nicked on the sealing edge,...

Try

Bee Jay · 03-29-2001, 07:48 AM

Jake, your are "the man" when it comes to these Type IV engines. If I have the "syndrome" can I buy or build this lock plate. I refuse to take this engine out of the car or break open this case again. I will live with the slight leak first. But I'm going to try sealing an aftermarket tuna can with new gaskets and light Curill or silicone first. Is this a good plan.
Bee Jay

Jake Raby · 03-29-2001, 07:30 PM

You can probably fab a "lock plate" if you have some mild steel and a wire welder, I just make 2 tabs, that will firmly rest inside and against the engine case.
Make sure that you put rags or whatever into the case,to keep weld material and etc from getting in the sump, it will destroy the engine. This is a tricky process, but it works...

The ONLy type of silicone sealant to use is "ultra Gray" it will not turn into a string and clog the filter or jam in the bearing oil passages,all other types are terriable.

One time I used JB weld to lock the plate onto the case, it was removeable, but it took some work. Just experiment with it, if you do have the "Syndrome" the only real way to repair it is to split the case!!