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Question Brake work

I have a 76 914 2.0 with the 5-lug conversion. I need to replace the rear brake pads, rotors, and rebuild the calipers.

With the 5-lug upgrade how do I know which parts to get? Is everything still 914-4 parts or 914-6 or 911? Do I need to get the new rotors drilled or can I buy 914-4 rotors predrilled for 5-lugs?

I'm pretty much a novice with taking cars apart... I've seen the tech article on rebuilding calipers, but is that something I can do... correctly... the first time? If not, does anyone have any recommendations for who does a good job?

Also, as far as rotors and pads go... any recommendations on brands/manufacturers? I use the car for regular street driving.

Thanks for the help.

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76 Porsche 914 2.0
Old 04-12-2006, 06:22 PM
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Looks like a redrilled set of 91-4 4 bolt hubs....giving you 5 lugs. Non vented rotors...
So everything should be stock 914-4 stuff.

For rebuilt (look like brand new) calipers. Get ahold of Eric Shea.
When the 914club.com board goes back up. Post this again and you should get lots of good information.
Old 04-12-2006, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Do I need to get the new rotors drilled or can I buy 914-4 rotors predrilled for 5-lugs?
Get 914-6 rotors unless the latest cost is prohibitive. -4 rotors go for around $50.00 a piece for another $25.00 each you should be able to get a machine shop to drill them to 5-lug. So... $75.00 vs. the cost of -6 rotors...

Quote:
I've seen the tech article on rebuilding calipers, but is that something I can do... correctly... the first time?
It can be challenging. You'll need a few special things to get them back together. If you go that route, I recommend 'against' tearing the handbrake arm down completely. This kit is an additional $50.00 (at least) and at that point, you can buy a decent core caliper so it seems to me to be a cost prohibitive venture.

Quote:
Also, as far as rotors and pads go... any recommendations on brands/manufacturers? I use the car for regular street driving.
For regular street driving and to get the best performance out of your brakes I recommend standard 'organic' pads. Metallics are low noise and low dust but also low in the stopping department too. Standard pads found 'here' should do the trick. If you want to go awesome for street and autocross, I recommend Porterfield P4S (street) pads.

Don't worry about the rotors. You'll get Zimmerman or Brembo and either is fine. But... do look into the cost of -6 rotors vs. the -4 rotors. Some say the -6 rotors need to be turned down but on all but a small percentage of the cars I've worked on, the -6 rotors bolt right on. I think -6 rotors are very expensive right now but I haven't checked the prices lately.

We can restore your calipers to new condition (plated, rebuilt etc...) for around $225.00 per pair. As Dan mentioned, when the site comes back online you can check some rebuild threads there and also see the finished products. This will help you decide which route you want to go.
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Old 04-12-2006, 06:45 PM
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Here's a Pic...

This is a complete set that was proudly done for Don Travers' -6. It's a nice one family six and we wanted to treat it right...

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Old 04-12-2006, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Some say the -6 rotors need to be turned down but on all but a small percentage of the cars I've worked on, the -6 rotors bolt right on.
Why would the -6 rotors potentially need to be turned while the -4s don't? Are the -6's too thick to fit the 914-4 calipers?
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Old 04-13-2006, 05:24 AM
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Sorry. Edges would be turned not the surface. They are a bit larger in circumfrence.
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Old 04-13-2006, 07:23 AM
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A very small bit larger in diameter (also circumference, since those two measurements are directly related). They may clear just fine, especially if you take up any slop in the mounting of the brake caliper to move the caliper outward. I have heard of at least one case where they fit when the car was cold, but then would start to rub after the brakes were used a number of times. The disk grew very slightly, and that was enough to make it rub.

And, like Eric said, often enough they just bolt right up with no problems.

--DD
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Old 04-13-2006, 07:46 AM
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Dave,

Can you give me the specific size difference between the two rotors? I would like to make sure I have enough wiggle room to accomodate the larger rotor.

Thanks.
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Old 04-20-2006, 11:20 AM
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Sorry, I don't know the exact difference. I suspect it is on the order of a couple of mm, but I have never had the chance to measure it. It may also vary from rotor to rotor, or manufacturer to manufacturer.

--DD
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Old 04-20-2006, 12:56 PM
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I went with the /4 rotors. Much cheaper (and free shipping).

I also picked up the steel upgrade brake lines. How do I get the old rubber ones off? The "caliper-side" was no problem, but I can't get two hands in there to loosen up the other end. I'm worried about twisting/kinking the brake line on the other side of the connection. Is there a tool or a trick?
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Old 05-09-2006, 08:57 AM
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Step 1--remove the engine.

Well, you don't have to, but it is rather less difficult (but still a huge PITA!) if you do. If not, you can get some access for at least one of the flare-nut wrenches by going in through one of the holes in the engine tin. You may be able to remove the side engine tin without dropping the engine (that's another PITA though in my experience!) to give you a bit more room.

No matter what, though, it's not a fun job. I'm not looking forward to the day I have to do it to my car.

--DD
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Old 05-09-2006, 10:35 AM
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Drop the engine!?!? Dave, please tell me I didn't describe the problem correctly.

The thin non-flexible brake line that connects to the caliper is connected to the flexible rubber hose (about a foot long), the other end of the rubber hose where it connects to "main" line... that connection. Need to drop the engine for that?? (anybody want a mostly stock '76 914 that runs great minus one short break line )

I figured since I was replacing the rotors, pads, and calipers, I might as well replace the lines as well. I thought it was going to a be quick and easy upgrade.
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Old 05-09-2006, 02:07 PM
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As I said, you don't actually have to drop the engine, but it is a real pain getting the wrenches on there with it in place. See if any of the existing holes in the engine tin (e.g., for the heater J-tubes, for various wires, etc.) will help get access. If not, consider removing the engine tin. Or the engine...

Or just button it up again and leave the old lines on, until you drop the engine for some other reason.

--DD
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Old 05-09-2006, 03:12 PM
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Dropping the engine or removing the engine tin is way over my head.

I would have left the brake lines alone if I knew it would be so much trouble, but... it's too late for that... an hour or so before your response, I stopped in at the mechanic who I bought the car from last year... he said it was as simple as cutting the hose (point of no return), using an open-ended wrench to hold the top line and a deep socket and long extension to loosen from the bottom. Well... I took his advise... but he didn't consider that damn clip holding the hose in place.
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Old 05-09-2006, 03:40 PM
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That clip is a major PITA. Like I said, see if you can try one of the existing holes in the engine tin. Or maybe you can get something in there to cut the clip and deal with replacing it after you've got the line on?

--DD
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Old 05-09-2006, 04:57 PM
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I got the clips off!! And it was actually easy!

The bracket that the hoses are mounted on/through is notched on the end where it is attached to the car. From underneath you can see the clips through these tiny notches. Using a long screwdriver through the notches I was able to push the clip and turn it just enough so that I could push it further out from the sides of the bracket until they came off.
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Old 05-10-2006, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by hheifetz

Can you give me the specific size difference between the two rotors?
914/4 rear : 282mm
914/6 rear : 286mm
911 rear : 290mm
Old 05-10-2006, 05:36 PM
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