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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Pacific, MO USA
Posts: 343
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I can't remember who posted a way to remove the trailing arm bushings with a torch, but I do remember them saying something to the effect of "Stinky and Messy". The "Stinky" I expected (burning rubber, duh), but the "Messy" part really caught me by surprise! That sticky goo was popping everywhere! I did, however, get the desired results. After a stripping, priming and painting, everything looks great. I strongly recommend doing this process in someone elses garage.
P.S.-I'm getting ready to replace the front bushings soon. Are they as much of a b*tch as the rears? In other words, should I look for another locale to pollute? Or is there an easier way? |
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Hey! Nice Rack! "Celette"
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I've used a drill to put a series of holes in the rubber. Then use a press to finish the job. Just a thought...May save a visit from your local Insurance adjuster, Service master, and possibly a trip to the Burn Clinic.
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Centre, AL, USA
Posts: 205
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The drill method for the front bushings works well. Just keep the drill holes to the outside so you don't nick the a-arm itself (don't ask).
And when putting in the new bushings, the front and rear bushings are different but look very sinilar. The should be marked though. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Pacific, MO USA
Posts: 343
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That brings up a good question. When you install polygraphite bushings, which part of the bushing is actually taking the wear, inside, outside or both? I know that the rear set of rubber bushings that almost required dynamite to remove didn't seem to have any pivoting action to them at all, more like it was twisting the bushing, not pivoting. With the solid polygraphite bushings somethings got to move whether it be the trailing arm over the bushing, in which case the zerk fittings I've seen on them makes sense, or the bushing around the mounting rod (nomenclature?) which makes the zerk fitting useless. I was actually considering installing a fitting in the fat middle part of the trailing arm, and pumping it completely full of grease. It might waste alot of grease, but at least I'd have all the bases covered. ??Comments??
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: ON, Canada
Posts: 886
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Just did the rears myself, and based on a suggestion in another thread here on this subject, I used a bar clamp and a piece of pipe as a press while holding the trailing arm in a vise. I could actually re-use the bushings if I chose to. Ya gotta jury rig a press and its fairly easy.
I've designed a $15 trailing arm fixture/horizonatal press that could do this and the front with no difficulty using threaded rod. Needs welding and some scrap material. WRT bushings, I believe that the bushing should remain fixed into whatever female part it is pressed and the male object inside it should move. Dave Dave |
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