source for tranny rebuild?+removal hints
 

I spent most of yesterday removing the engine and transmission from my '74 1.8 for the first time and am looking for suggestions on where to get the tranny rebuilt in southern California. How much should the procedure cost? Any recommendations would be appreciated.


Among other sources I used Pelican's own tech article as a guide for the engine removal. From my own experience, it was off on its recommendation of unbolting the drive shafts while the car was still on the ground; I found this much easier once the car was jacked up, as suggested in Haynes. Also, none of the books mentioned that when you try to unbolt the engine support bar, the bolt is likely to spin free, forcing you to figure out some way to wedge your hand and a pliers into the tiny space above the mounting bracket to hold the bolt steady. What a beeotch!

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Anthony

I turned the mounting bolt for the engine support bar upside down after the first time trying to keep that pesky little bolt from spinning. Now, I can use a socket on top (where I can't see) and the wrench on the bottom (where I can see). Drawbacks: The bolt hangs down low enough that it is visible, and there is a danger that it will hit on a speed bump or something if your car is lowered. Mine hasn't hit anything in the 8 years since I did this.

Good luck
Pritchard

For a transaxle rebuild, you might try FAT Performance in Orange--(714) 637-2889. My rebuild ran about $1200, not inexpensive, but the mainshaft bearings for the type 901 are getting real pricey so that accounts for a good chunk of the money. When reassembling, make sure that you cinch down the CV joint bolts real good. A little LocTite here wouldn't hurt, as they tend to loosen up. Also check the trans mounts...stock ones (esp. 25-year-old ones) crack and tear. 911 motor mounts are virtually the same design, only half as much ($35 vs $70 apiece). You need to slightly elongate their mounting holes though...takes about 5 minutes with a rat-tail file. Good luck!

P.S. The little boot where the shifter rod enters that big plastic cup was missing. AFAIK, the part is no longer available, but I found a rubber boot for a sand-rail master cylinder that fits perfectly. Paid about $6 at Kymco Motorsports (Harbor Blvd. in Costa Mesa).

Contact me I have Exchange units built by The best gearbox builder in So Cal. Steve www.914underground.com

Thanks, everyone, for all the good advice. I've been considering taking the tranny to Motor Meister in Downey, CA, for the rebuild. They seem knowledgeable, and it appears to be a bit cheaper than the other places mentioned. Let me know if you've heard anything bad.

By the way, how do I get the ignition computer box out of the engine compartment? On mine, the mounting bolts just spin useless, but also can't be pulled out with a pliers. Any thoughts?

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Anthony