New light switch in, same strange problem
 

Continued from Twystd1 thread on club site...

I received and installed got the replacement 11-pin head light switch. It's in much better condition than my original one, considering the rheostat didn't crumble to bits in my fingers.

I confirmed each and every connection both when removing each wire from old switch and again upon connecting to each pin on the new one.

So then I stick the key in the ignition and put it in the ON but not started position, and sure enough, two tail lights light up, one brighter than the other. So that problem wasn't in the light switch apparently.

Is there a chance that the underlying problem is what ruined my original light switch? I don't want to repeat that if possible.

Now sure what to check now without access to the original thread on this problem.

Did you check your taillight housings? Take them apart and clean all the connections. Sounds like corrosion on the ground connections in the dim light. Only takes about 1 hour per housing to clean them up.

Dan,

I would just start from the tail light wiring and work my way backward at all the junction points. Start eliminated possible shorts. Do you have the haynes manual. I believe Pelican also has a wiring diagram here somewhere.

I have Haynes and a big print-out of the diagram from here at Pelican. The quirk pointed out by Mike(Dr.Evil) is that the 914 is wired left/right, but I am having an issue that is oriented front/rear. My wiring is luckily very clean pliable, etc., and I haven't come upon any hint of corrosion yet, but there's bound to be some somewhere! :)

I will start by cleaning up the contacts on the housings as suggested. Since I'm not getting around to looking at my brake problem tonight...

Dan,

I would start by disconnecting one taillight, see if that makes a difference. Then reattach and disconnect the other. Just keep doing process of elimination

Dan,

Sorry to hear it's still a problem. I would definitely find the problem before you use your lights again (other than to troubleshoot). Definitely heed the above advice (check connections, disconnect one at a time, etc.). Maybe I can shoot up on Saturday to help if you don't get to it by then. Let me know.

Something is heating up those wires, are they running lights for sure

or could they be brake lights. Please check and let us know.

Ok, I got more details.

First, it is the brake lights that are staying lit.

The problem magically disappeared so I fiddled until it came back and identified at least part of the cause.

It seems that the brake pedal is sticking slightly, or the brake light switch (on the MC, right?) is sticking. If tap the brake pedal, it bounces back and the brake lights turn off. Whether the brake lights are on or off seems to depend on the rebound of the brake pedal.

However, the driver side brake light is significantly brighter than the passenger side, both in the "stuck on" position as well as when depressing the brakes. I believe we (Chris(Auggie91420) and Clayton) checked the brake light bulbs and they were ok. I will momentarily swap in some new bulbs to see if that helps.

I checked the wires and pins at the tail light assemblies and they look virtually brand new.

Could there be an issue with corrosion in the fuses or fuse box? The fuse box cover was missing when I got the car, and I have no idea how long it was missing. Today I got a cover to replace it, but I wonder if moisture may have already done something in there. I will swap some fuses and try to make sure all contacts are clean.

Chris, thanks for the offer of help. Our baby shower is Saturday so I can't take you up on it. But whenever you are looking to get out of the city proper and put some miles on that eager new engine, there are some roads not too far away that are beggin' for some 914s. Between the two of our cars, we almost make 1 grasshopper!

Ok, swapped out the weaker bulb, and sure enough, one of the 2 filaments was out. Shoulda checked that simple possibility sooner.

So now I think I need to check/replace the brake light switch on the master cylinder? Or something with the brake pedal itself?

there is an adjustment feature on the brake light switch. p.129, section 30, and figure 9.25, of your haynes, that may help. weak spring on the pedal cluster too?

k

Dan,
I shoulda figgered to ask the obvious EVENTHOUGH Clayton said it was NOT the brake lights. If it is the switch it is an easy fix. As stated, you can adjust them. If your pedals are sticky and look like they need rebuilding I would suggest Eric Shea's rebuilt units. I have one and they are very reasonable.

Man, you two had me chasing my tail since ya'll said it was not the brake lights....sheesh.

The simplist answer usually ends up the right one. I am glad you fixed it.

Now you just need to kick your brakes @ss. Good luck