Fisrt and Reverse Crunch
 

(It's not just for breakfast anymore!)

Ok, folks. I realize this is a common ailment (identifying trait?) for 914's but, I have a problem with 1st and reverse. From a stand still, in neutral, I cannot go into reverse or 1st gear without crunching.

I've read the tech articles, I guess I'm missing something. I know I need to adjust the clutch. The PO adjusted it so it engages somewhere between the road and the floorpan.

All the other gears are fine. First can be had while slowly rolling to a stop (and from start-up), but reverse can only be engaged from start-up.

Do I have more than a clutch problem? 1st/reverse synchro? My old 72 1.7 crunched in 1, 2, 3, 4, and reverse. I had that tranny rebuilt. I don't want to do that again.


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Ray
73 2.0L

Try ajusting the clutch It is easier than replacing the gearbox. Steve

Well,
Not to rain on your parade but those are some of the same symptoms I was getting before my tranny decided it was never going to let go of reverse. I am not sure that the two were absolutley related, but it was a bit coincidental.

I haven't had a chance to pull the tranny apart yet, but I strongly suspect the 1st/reverse shift fork or rod. You don't say whether you have a tail or side shifter. The tail shifter has a bit more internal levers and longer rods due to the movement required to transfer the motion from the rear to the middle where the pivot is and then back to the rear where the 1st/reverse fork is.

By all means, adjust the clutch. It's just such an easy procedure. I only wish it had worked in my case.

Good Luck!



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Herb
'72 1.7 Tangerine 'Teen
'74 2.0 Red Rustmobile

A couple of weeks ago my first gear started to do the same thing. How does one adjust the clutch anyway? I looked in the tech articles and they said one is coming soon...but I can't find it. Can anyone help me, I don't want to hurt anything. Thanks

Nathan

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'73 2.0 914

Nathan and all,

I too need info on a clutch adjustment. please let me in on any secrets.

Also, if anyone has any info in shift bushing replacement / adjustment (?). I have read most of the past posts here, so I'm just looking for new secrets and points of view.

Thanks


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Dave
1970 914-6 (soon GT)

Ray,

This is a common trait of even a newly rebuilt 901 tranny...have you tried going into 2nd and then into first when at a stop? Or, for reverse, 2nd-1st-reverse :P I know it sounds silly but it works for me. The mechanic who rebuilt my tranny (porsche certified) said that when at a stop the motion from neutral to first or reverse isn't enough to get the syncros working properly, so going into 2nd then to first gets things moving enough to drop into first without the crunch...that also explains why you can grap first while still rolling without a problem.

Having owned VW's made this easy for me, they all shift like this...I hope this helps, a rebuild is not a fun thing to have to do.

Yours,

Tony
74 2.0

Dave, for bushing replacement and shift linkage adjustment, check the Tech Article on "shifter improvements".

Maybe I should write up a tech article on clutch adjustment, huh?

The basic concept is that you want some "free play" at the pedal. I forget the exact spec, but you want something like 1/2" of free play at the pedal, where the pedal moves with little resistance. Some or all of this free play will occur when you pull back on the pedal--it is spring-loaded to keep tension on the cable. You adjust the free play (generally) by turning the nut on the transmission end of the clutch cable. Tweak the nut until you get the specified free play.

--DD

Don't forget to check the level and condition of the transmission fluid. Probably has not been changed since Nixon resigned.

I highly recommend Swepco.

Here's how I adjust the clutch on both our 914s: Take a ruler and measure the free play at the pedal, I have about 1/2 inch before I feel resistance. If it is more than this, jack up the right side and put a jack stand under the car. Get the wrenches, 2 11mm and 1 8mm. Remove the right rear wheel (while not necessary, it makes access easier for me since I don't bend as easy as I used to). You should see the cable where it attaches to the lever arm and there should be TWO 11mm nuts on it. Use the 11mm wrenches and loosen the lock nut. Use the 8mm wrench to hold the cable from turning (important) and turn the nut against the lever towards the back of the car to tighten the cable. Measure the free play and readjust as necessary. When done, tighten the jam nut with the 2 11mm wrenches tightly so it won't viberate loose. Attach the wheel and lower the car. When driving, the clutch should engage/disengage about halfway up from the floor. Also make sure you push the pedal all the way to the floor and it hits the rubber stop, which can be adjusted to give full release. Good luck.

Thanks for the info guys, I'll try it this weekend and let everyone know if it worked in my case. I just had the end of the clutch cable replaced and trans oil changed 4 months ago, maybe the new cable end had some play in it. Thanks again http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/smile.gif

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'73 2.0 914

Thanks guys, I adjusted my clutch today and it worked like a charm http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/biggrin.gif You'd think I had a new tranny or something. Also gave me a reason to clean out the inderside of the car too...and of course drive it more(always a plus)

Nathan
PS: How many 914's in burke VA? I've seen 3 other than mine this week.

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'73 2.0 914

I think I'm haviving the same problem. How do you adjust the clutch???

I agree. This shifting sequence seems to work. BUT, not for a indefinite soulution! It does progressively get worse. Make adjustments as soon as you can.

and how do you make the adjustment to the cluch

Read John Roger's post 7 ones up from this one.......

duh!!!! sorry

A couple of things to note:

If you are having to adjust the clutch often, it is a sign of a stretching clutch cable. Buy a new one now.

If the tranny is crunching in 1st _and_ reverse, you are still "somewhat" connect between the engine and the tranny. If only 1st, it's a synchro.

Adjust clutch cable first. If that doesn't fix it, next would be look to why the clutch is dragging: usually the pilot bearing is gone. It can also be actual clutch issues.

James, what's the capacity of the transmission (how much oil do I need to replace what is in there)?

I have to adjust my clutch cable a bit here and there and it's fairly new. I'm pretty sure my tube is nice and solid in there, it still sticks out from the firewall for the overage of the cable to hang onto. (that sound right?)

All in all, it's just bushings and old parts on mine that make the shifting vauge. It goes into and out of gear alright. I have a new shift lever to install that I thought I might try tomorrow...does the bottom of the lever have a bushing? I need to look in the catalogue....

=-) Weeee!

2.6 qts.???? TYPO!!!!!!

All the fluid specs are here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/technical_specs/914_filling_cap.htm

And the TYPO! It's near 6 qts. Go US!


M

mike go to funnyjunk.com and click on weeeeee!!